tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6839606822758147062024-03-13T16:47:00.914-06:00Discomposing the Altitude of my Puffs!Le Bombettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07344968780059271389noreply@blogger.comBlogger9125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-683960682275814706.post-11877208187748640062013-05-21T22:57:00.000-06:002013-05-21T22:57:23.249-06:00Strawberry Dresses...Forever<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ap/web-large/ap54.90.506.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ap/web-large/ap54.90.506.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Strawberry Peddler by William P. Chappel, American, 1870's - Metropolitan Museum of Art</td></tr>
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Urgh and ack! I've been suffering from a severe case of blogging brain-freeze. In the past month, I've halfway written about 3 different posts and gave up in disgust on all three. The writing seems to be the issue...oh, and my complete lack of time, but to combat at least one of these problems I've decided to do a post that consists mostly of pretty, pretty pictures. This means that you get to gander at pretty dresses and other sundry artifacts while I get to lessen my feelings of blog inadequacy and avoid hurting my brain with silly stuff like research. However, in my anal mind fluff and <a href="http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/frou-frou" target="_blank">frou-frou</a> still need a theme and so, ye shall have it. This Sunday a little group of history nerds calling themselves <a href="https://www.facebook.com/RegencyEmpireGeorgian?ref=hl" target="_blank">REGAL - Regency, Empire, Georgian Afficianados League </a>will be having a tribute to Jane Austen's novel Emma with a <a href="https://www.facebook.com/events/533783510019792/" target="_blank">Donwell Abbey Strawberry Picnic</a>. Since I'm the co-founder I should probably be there and while I'll more than likely be wearing some of my old Regency duds I'll be imagining myself in one of these numbers reminiscent of our scarlet fruit of honor...the STRAWBERRY.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/es/web-large/DP142982.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/es/web-large/DP142982.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Work bag, 1669, British - Embroidered wool on linen work bag done by a young girl of age 10<br />(her initials, age and the date are embroidered in the bottom center). The design includes native plants like wild<br />strawberry, honeysuckle and acorns. Metropolitan Museum of Art</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1983.4_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1983.4_F.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Court Dress, ca. 1828, probably German - Metropolitan Museum of Art</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1972.139.9_F.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1972.139.9_F.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Morning dress, ca. 1827, British - Metropolitan Museum of Art<br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/C.I.42.39.3ab_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/C.I.42.39.3ab_F.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Silk dress, 1845-1849, American or European - Metropolitan Museum of Art<br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/2002.383ab_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/2002.383ab_F.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Silk dress, ca.1869, American or European - Metropolitan Museum of Art</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.alplm.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/LCDV022-copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://www.alplm.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/LCDV022-copy.jpg" width="399" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mary Todd Lincoln in her strawberry dress...read more about the dress and the popularity of<br />"Strawberry Parties" <a href="http://www.alplm.org/blog/2011/04/mary-lincoln%E2%80%99s-original-%E2%80%98strawberry-dress%E2%80%99/" target="_blank">here</a> - Abraham Lincoln Presidential Library & Museum</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2008BT/2008BT6471_jpg_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2008BT/2008BT6471_jpg_l.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dress made of Challis (soft, lightweight, usually printed fabric made of cotton, wool or later rayon)<br />ca. 1837-1840, United Kingdom - The Victorian & Albert Museum </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/56.169.1_CP3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/56.169.1_CP3.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Evening Dress, Bergdorf Goodman (American), ca.1935<br />Metropolitan Museum of Art</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/37.192_F.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/37.192_F.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Silk dress, ca.1837, American - Metropolitan Museum of Art<br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/71.164.2a-c_front_CP4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/71.164.2a-c_front_CP4.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cotton dress, 1832 - 1835, American - Metropolitan Museum of Art<br /><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/65.188.4a-b_CP4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/65.188.4a-b_CP4.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slippers, Rosenbloom's, ca.1892, American - Metropolitan Museum of Art<br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/.a/6a01156f47abbe970c015391063d32970b-800wi" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/.a/6a01156f47abbe970c015391063d32970b-800wi" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Day gown - Paris, France - ca.1897 - FIDM Museum</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2008BT/2008BT6549_jpg_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2008BT/2008BT6549_jpg_l.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Silk gown, 1760-1769 (made), Great Britain - V&A Museum<br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2006AV/2006AV6210_jpg_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2006AV/2006AV6210_jpg_l.jpg" width="464" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Evening dress, ca. 1810, England - V&A Museum</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/84.29_front_CP4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/84.29_front_CP4.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ball gown, ca. 1842, British - Metropolitan Museum of Art<br /><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1982.299ab_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1982.299ab_F.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ball gown, House of Worth, ca.1896 - Metropolitan Museum of Art<br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://zoom.mfa.org/fif=sc6/sc61796.fpx&obj=iip,1.0&wid=568&cell=568,427&cvt=jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://zoom.mfa.org/fif=sc6/sc61796.fpx&obj=iip,1.0&wid=568&cell=568,427&cvt=jpeg" width="522" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reception or dinner dress, House of Worth, about 1883 - Museum of Fine Arts, Boston<br /><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://zoom.mfa.org/fif=sc4/sc45598.fpx&obj=iip,1.0&wid=568&cell=568,427&cvt=jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://zoom.mfa.org/fif=sc4/sc45598.fpx&obj=iip,1.0&wid=568&cell=568,427&cvt=jpeg" width="490" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">American dress, about 1868 - Museum of Fine Arts, Boston</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://zoom.mfa.org/fif=sc3/sc3057.fpx&obj=iip,1.0&wid=960&cvt=jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="478" src="http://zoom.mfa.org/fif=sc3/sc3057.fpx&obj=iip,1.0&wid=960&cvt=jpeg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Embroidered bag, American, 18th-19th Century - MFA Boston<br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://zoom.mfa.org/fif=sc3/sc36231.fpx&obj=iip,1.0&wid=960&cvt=jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://zoom.mfa.org/fif=sc3/sc36231.fpx&obj=iip,1.0&wid=960&cvt=jpeg" width="470" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Infant's dress with strawberry printed design, 1st quarter of 19th Century, American<br />MFA Boston</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://zoom.mfa.org/fif=sc1/sc120628.fpx&obj=iip,1.0&wid=960&cvt=jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="552" src="http://zoom.mfa.org/fif=sc1/sc120628.fpx&obj=iip,1.0&wid=960&cvt=jpeg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Woman's headdress, French (worn in America), mid-19th Century - MFA Boston<br /><br /><span style="font-size: small;">And...now to end with about the sweetest thing I've ever set eyes on...friendship, teapots, kitties, and strawberries!</span><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://zoom.mfa.org/fif=sc1/sc10235.fpx&obj=iip,1.0&wid=960&cvt=jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://zoom.mfa.org/fif=sc1/sc10235.fpx&obj=iip,1.0&wid=960&cvt=jpeg" width="449" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Child's mitten, American, mid-19th Century - MFA, Boston<br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size: small;">Now, off to pick strawberries and dream of red dresses, or perhaps pink....</span></td></tr>
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Le Bombettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07344968780059271389noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-683960682275814706.post-30890524667095297292013-03-16T23:43:00.000-06:002013-03-16T23:43:13.952-06:00Happy "Wearing of the Green" to Ya!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Image courtesy of <a href="http://veraholloway.blogspot.com/">veraholloway.blogspot.com</a></td></tr>
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<a href="http://www.history.com/topics/st-patricks-day" target="_blank">Happy St. Patrick's Day</a>! Here's a quick post to celebrate the day with no...not green beer...but, with a bit o' green fashions from history. Of course, you could always have a green beer while reading this post...seems perfectly reasonable. Anyways, back to the bit o' green thing...well, why do we wear, dye beer and rivers green on St. Patrick's Day? Most of us associate green with Ireland as the <a href="http://www.thefreedictionary.com/Emerald+Isle" target="_blank">Emerald Isle</a>...also, green is one of the three colors of the <a href="http://www.enchantedlearning.com/europe/ireland/flag.shtml" target="_blank">Irish flag</a> and legend tells us that St. Patrick used a clover to teach the Holy Trinity to the Irish. But, that's not all of the story...quaint little tidbits about the color green and the association with St. Patrick's Day are rampant on the web. A bit deeper and darker connection to the color green may rest with the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Irish_Rebellion_of_1798" target="_blank">Irish Rebellion of 1798</a>. Inspired by the revolutions in America and France, a republican revolutionary group known as the <a href="http://archive.org/details/societyofunitedi00unit" target="_blank">United Irishmen</a> began a violent uprising against British rule in May of 1798. The fighting "officially" lasted until September with an enormous loss of life; pockets of rebels continued guerrilla warfare until about 1804. The <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Society_of_United_Irishmen" target="_blank">Society of United Irishmen</a> had adopted the color green and the wearing of a shamrock as their symbol of resistance. (<a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=uAMwAAAAMAAJ&pg=PA272&lpg=PA272&dq=March+17+Irish+rebellion&source=bl&ots=apuKP-5dbS&sig=_Y78X7ewdYzzHojBHJ_hoM-gCIY&hl=en&sa=X&ei=GUZFUfTqOce14AP7koDABA&ved=0CDQQ6AEwATgK#v=onepage&q=March%2017%20Irish%20rebellion&f=false" target="_blank"><i>The History of the Irish Rebellion</i></a>, James Gordon) The old Irish street ballad, "<i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Wearing_of_the_Green" target="_blank">The Wearing of the Green</a></i>" sings of this practice, proclaiming that, "they're hanging men and women there for wearing of the green" (<a href="http://smithsonianfolkways.tumblr.com/post/455098993/test" target="_blank">listen to the song here</a>). As such, many historians claim that the tradition of wearing green on St. Patrick's Day owes as much to this tragic episode in Irish history as it does any other theory. I'm not a real fan of modern day St. Patrick's Day celebrations...however, I am a big fan of green...it's one of my favorite colors, so bring on the <i><b>wearing of the green</b></i>!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/21.511.28a-b_CP4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/21.511.28a-b_CP4.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Liturgical gloves - 17th Century - Europe- Metropolitan Museum of Art</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/69.142.22_CP4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/69.142.22_CP4.jpg" width="552" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Parasol - 1915 to 1920 - American - Metropolitan Museum of Art</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/64.230.4_CP4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/64.230.4_CP4.jpg" width="416" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Parason - Stern Brothers, America - 1876 - Metropolitan Museum of Art</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://zoom.mfa.org/fif=sc1/sc119699.fpx&obj=iip,1.0&wid=568&cell=568,427&cvt=jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://zoom.mfa.org/fif=sc1/sc119699.fpx&obj=iip,1.0&wid=568&cell=568,427&cvt=jpeg" width="636" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Woman's bonnet - American - about 1830 - MFA Boston</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://zoom.mfa.org/fif=sc1/sc108995.fpx&obj=iip,1.0&wid=568&cell=568,427&cvt=jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://zoom.mfa.org/fif=sc1/sc108995.fpx&obj=iip,1.0&wid=568&cell=568,427&cvt=jpeg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bonnet - silk - Early 19th Century - MFA Boston</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/62.141.3_CP3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/62.141.3_CP3.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.larsdatter.com/18c/calash.html" target="_blank">Calash </a>- American - ca. 1820 - Metropolitan Museum of Art</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br />
<a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/54.61.1a-b_CP4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="350" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/54.61.1a-b_CP4.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Silk evening slippers - American - 1835 to 1845 - Metropolitan Museum of Art</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/54.61.44a-b_CP4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="328" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/54.61.44a-b_CP4.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Silk women's shoes - British (probably) - 1810 to 1829 - Metropolitan Museum of Art</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/as/web-large/1998_544_330.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/as/web-large/1998_544_330.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ring with inset circular green stone - Indonesia - 8th Century to 10th Century<br />
Metropolitan Museum of Art</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ad/web-large/DT11571.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ad/web-large/DT11571.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Necklace - designed by Louis Comfort Tiffany - ca.1904 - New York, America<br />
Metropolitan Museum of Art<br />
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</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/is/web-large/DP242232.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/is/web-large/DP242232.jpg" width="628" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Child's wool tunic - 430 to 620 AD - Egypt - Metropolitan Museum of Art</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://media-cache-ec6.pinterest.com/550x/c9/6e/75/c96e75ae1018b7f9bb8741c50621c486.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://media-cache-ec6.pinterest.com/550x/c9/6e/75/c96e75ae1018b7f9bb8741c50621c486.jpg" width="412" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1808 to 1812 olive green wool dress - Fashion Museum of Bath</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/2008.82ab_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/2008.82ab_F.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ca.1810 - French (probably) - silk - Metropolitan Museum of Art</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://zoom.mfa.org/fif=sc2/sc23453.fpx&obj=iip,1.0&wid=568&cell=568,427&cvt=jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://zoom.mfa.org/fif=sc2/sc23453.fpx&obj=iip,1.0&wid=568&cell=568,427&cvt=jpeg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Silk dress - late 1790's - American - MFA Boston<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://media-cache-ec5.pinterest.com/550x/2c/a6/fc/2ca6fc5c21f4cd080efe89f00f19ca7b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://media-cache-ec5.pinterest.com/550x/2c/a6/fc/2ca6fc5c21f4cd080efe89f00f19ca7b.jpg" width="520" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ca.1825 Riding Habit - Rijksmuseum</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/31.27a-b_front_CP4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/31.27a-b_front_CP4.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Afternoon dress - House of Worth - French - 1875 - Metropolitan Museum of Art</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/34.112ab_S.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/34.112ab_S.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Robe a' la Polonaise - 1774 to 1793 - French - Metropolitan Museum of Art</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1981.352.4_F2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1981.352.4_F2.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dressing Gown - ca.1740 - British - Metropolitan Museum of Art</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/C.I.39.63.2ab_TQL.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/C.I.39.63.2ab_TQL.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dress, silk - American - 1868 to 1870 - Metropolitan Museum of Art</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/C.I.53.72.1a%E2%80%93c_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/C.I.53.72.1a%E2%80%93c_F.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dress, silk - American - 1868 - Metropolitan Museum of Art</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/82.16.1a-c_CP3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/82.16.1a-c_CP3.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dress - ca.1923 - American - Metropolitan Museum of Art</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/CI44.64.12_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/CI44.64.12_F.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Evening Dress - <a href="http://vintagefashionguild.org/label-resource/callot-soeurs/" target="_blank">Callot Souers</a> - French - 1925 to 1926 - Metropolitan Museum of Art</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1975.146.1ab_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1975.146.1ab_F.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Evening Dress - <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mariano_Fortuny_(designer)" target="_blank">Fortuny</a> - ca. 1920 - Italian - Metropolitan Museum of Art</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1995.28.11_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1995.28.11_F.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dinner dress - <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valentina_(fashion_designer)" target="_blank">Valentina</a> - American (Russian born) - ca.1941 - Metropolitan Museum of Art</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: left;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/CI60.42.2bc_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/CI60.42.2bc_F.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dinner dress - Henriette Favre - French - 1905 to 1907 - Metropolitan Museum of Art<br />
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<a href="http://searchcollections.brighton-hove-rpml.org.uk/grabimg.php?wm=1&kv=35109" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://searchcollections.brighton-hove-rpml.org.uk/grabimg.php?wm=1&kv=35109" width="388" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Evening Dress - c.1906 to 1908 - London, England - <a href="http://searchcollections.brighton-hove-rpml.org.uk/detail.php?type=related&kv=350886&t=objects" target="_blank">Brighton & Hove Museums</a></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: small;">I'm thinking that this isn't really what the United Irishmen intended when they chose green as the symbol of revolution. Oh well, at least they're having fun, right? </span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://blog.parkfast.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/St.-Pattys.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="275" src="http://blog.parkfast.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/St.-Pattys.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Please wear your green responsibly folks! </td></tr>
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<br />Le Bombettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07344968780059271389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-683960682275814706.post-36323922022563493102013-03-13T19:53:00.000-06:002013-03-13T19:53:06.370-06:00Will the Real Gibson Girl Please Stand Up? <table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.betterworldbooks.com/048/The-Gibson-Girl-and-Her-America-9780486473338.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="147" src="http://images.betterworldbooks.com/048/The-Gibson-Girl-and-Her-America-9780486473338.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.betterworldbooks.com/the-gibson-girl-and-her-america-id-0486473333.aspx" target="_blank">A collection of the best drawings</a><br />
of Charles Dana Gibson</td></tr>
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Well, this post started out with a foray into transitional short gowns, then morphed into high-necked Regency style gowns and somehow or another ended up with the Gibson Girl! This chaotic changing of the guard most likely owes to a) finding very few usable images for either of my first two subjects and b) my last post got me all obsessive about the 1890's and voila...<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gibson_Girl" target="_blank">Gibson Girl</a>! <br />
<a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/ef/Gibson_Girl_by_Charles_Dana_Gibson.jpg/463px-Gibson_Girl_by_Charles_Dana_Gibson.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/ef/Gibson_Girl_by_Charles_Dana_Gibson.jpg/463px-Gibson_Girl_by_Charles_Dana_Gibson.jpg" width="244" /></a>The iconic Gibson Girl was the creation of the illustrator <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_Dana_Gibson" target="_blank">Charles Dana Gibson</a> and first appeared in the 1890's as the idealized vision of female beauty in Gibson's satirical pen and ink illustrations. The Gibson Girl lived on in popular American culture for about twenty years, but her beauty and optimism had no place in the dark years of World War I. However, the influence of this idealized beauty left her mark on American culture so that even in modern times her iconic hairstyle makes a reappearance on fashion runways ever so often.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://mediumhairstyleupdate.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/gibson-girl-hairstyle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="251" src="http://mediumhairstyleupdate.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/gibson-girl-hairstyle.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">modern day Gibson Girl</td></tr>
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The Loyola University website, <i><a href="http://www.loyno.edu/~kchopin/new/women/gibsongirl.html" target="_blank">Kate Chopin </a></i>compares the Gibson Girl to Barbie. In many ways, just like Barbie, she provided young girls with a strong role model that could be feminine and beautiful while playing sports, working and confronting non-traditional female roles. Yet, also like Barbie, the Gibson Girl had her critics who leveled that she was an unrealistic image that real women could never attain. Unlike Barbie though, the Gibson Girl could not grow with the times. She would be forever trapped as an icon of her age. For his part in her creation, Charles Dana Gibson was very humble and seemingly embarrassed by his gal icon. (Find more about Charles Dana Gibson and the many artists that attempted to copy his iconic style <a href="http://www.illustration-art-solutions.com/charles-dana-gibson.html" target="_blank">here</a> and <a href="http://www.heraldsquarehotel.com/CDGibson.htm" target="_blank">here</a>.) Critic, Henry Pitz in the book <a href="http://www.amazon.com/The-Gibson-Girl-Her-America/dp/0486219860" target="_blank"><i>"The Gibson Girl and her America"</i> </a>wrote, "He (Gibson) was not a consciously deep prober, but many of the surface features to which he was sensitive had deep and mysterious roots. He had a lot to reveal about the characters of his era and had more than a little to do with the shaping of it."<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.sundaymagazine.org/wp-content/uploads/19101120-6-the-700.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="609" src="http://www.sundaymagazine.org/wp-content/uploads/19101120-6-the-700.gif" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An article that demonstrates Gibson's own humble feelings concerning his creation, the Gibson Girl</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.illustration-art-solutions.com/images/Gibson3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="425" src="http://www.illustration-art-solutions.com/images/Gibson3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gibson's wife Irene Langhorne was much of the inspiration for the "Gibson Girl" and his friend, writer and adventurer Rchard Harding Davis was the model for the "Gibson Man" - the handsome and often unwitting victim of the Gibson Girl's charms. <a href="http://www.illustration-art-solutions.com/images/Gibson3.jpg" target="_blank">(Illustration Art Solutions)</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/61/Evelyn_Nesbit_12056u.jpg/459px-Evelyn_Nesbit_12056u.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/61/Evelyn_Nesbit_12056u.jpg/459px-Evelyn_Nesbit_12056u.jpg" width="244" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Evelyn Nesbit, one of Gibson's </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">models, </span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> but not the original Gibson Girl</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Read about her involvement in the</span><br />
<a href="http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/amex/century/sfeature/sf_interview.html" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Murder of the Century here</span></a></td></tr>
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You'll find all across the internet a variety of misquotes from Gibson on the matter of his ideally drawn woman but, Gibson insisted that he never meant to "create" a particular type of woman, rather the "nation created her". "The "Gibson Girl" does not really exist. Rather, there are just beautiful girls who exist as a product of evolution and the melting pot of races in America."<a href="http://sundaymagazine.org/2010/11/the-gibson-girl-analyzed-by-her-originator/" target="_blank"> (New York Times Sunday Magazine, November 20, 1910)</a>. Gibson insisted that his creation was not based on one beauty, but rather a cadre of American female faces all rolled into one look. Contrary to popular belief, and just about everything you see on a Pinterest page or blog about the Gibson Girl, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Evelyn_Nesbit" target="_blank">Evelyn Nesbit,</a> famed chorus girl and artists' model, was not the original Gibson Girl, nor did there ever exist one "original" Gibson Girl as Charles Dana Gibson himself stated...and, if there had been a "THE" Gibson Girl, she would have most likely been Gibson's own wife, <a href="http://www.encyclopediavirginia.org/Gibson_Irene_Langhorne_1873-1956" target="_blank">Irene Langhorne</a>. Nesbit was one of the many models that Gibson used in his work and she was most likely the model for his famous work <i>Woman: The Eternal Question </i>with her cascading hair forming a question mark. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f3/Eternal-question.gif/220px-Eternal-question.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f3/Eternal-question.gif/220px-Eternal-question.gif" width="340" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Woman:The Eternal Question</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.artandculture.com/uploads/images/0012/8000/At_the_Beach__Gibson_1__lightbox.jpg?1250710292" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="451" src="http://www.artandculture.com/uploads/images/0012/8000/At_the_Beach__Gibson_1__lightbox.jpg?1250710292" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Gibson Girl was often portrayed in the company of men and always holding her own if not <br />
getting the best of them! <a href="http://www.artandculture.com/feature/1222" target="_blank">(Art and Culture You Might Love Blog)</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.designingdisney.com/sites/default/files/images/gibson-girl/6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="440" src="http://www.designingdisney.com/sites/default/files/images/gibson-girl/6.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Read about the Gibson Girl Ice Cream Parlor located in <a href="http://www.designingdisney.com/content/designing-main-street-usa-gibson-girl-ice-cream-parlor" target="_blank">Disneyland Paris here</a>!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi76VBfOqB1M40_lLFgXkvCmq6XmssJ4x0s4_IzpL4vW8G05_aspcF-5_naZVx__ePE_VbkptGTT_ETJtBiJYU6mvwmyCSPGtz86_o1O-ob4ePhSM-3HJT5bgO6Pyoi1sl_h3H5fb9KbHeC/s1600/Picture+2.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="508" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi76VBfOqB1M40_lLFgXkvCmq6XmssJ4x0s4_IzpL4vW8G05_aspcF-5_naZVx__ePE_VbkptGTT_ETJtBiJYU6mvwmyCSPGtz86_o1O-ob4ePhSM-3HJT5bgO6Pyoi1sl_h3H5fb9KbHeC/s640/Picture+2.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Accident to a Young Man with a Weak Heart</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/81/Gibson_Girls_Magnifying_Glass_by_Charles_Dana_Gibson.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="484" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/81/Gibson_Girls_Magnifying_Glass_by_Charles_Dana_Gibson.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pen and ink drawing for "The Weaker Sex", illustration by Charles Dana Gibson -<br />
A young man on his knees being examined like an insect by curious Gibson Girls.<br />
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<a href="http://foxpudding.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/charles_dana_gibson_turning_tide_1900.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="449" src="http://foxpudding.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/charles_dana_gibson_turning_tide_1900.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
The Turning of the Tide - Charles Dana Gibson - <a href="http://foxpudding.wordpress.com/2011/09/15/charles-dana-gibson/" target="_blank">(The Automat)</a><br />
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<a href="http://foxpudding.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/gibson-girl21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://foxpudding.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/gibson-girl21.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
Their First Quarrel - Charles Dana Gibson <a href="http://foxpudding.wordpress.com/2011/09/15/charles-dana-gibson/" target="_blank">(The Automat)</a><br />
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<a href="http://foxpudding.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/gibson-girl4.jpg?w=640&h=371" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="370" src="http://foxpudding.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/gibson-girl4.jpg?w=640&h=371" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Despite his humbleness in confronting his creation, the Gibson Girl made the artist the highest paid illustrator of his time...making up to $1,000 per illustration. The Gibson Girl took over America during her heyday and her image appeared everywhere from print to items like ashtrays and pillow cases. But her grasp on society didn't end there...her tailored clothing and swan-bill corset stood in contrast with her bedroom tousled hair and young women embraced the look with fervor. They modeled the demeanor and antics of their heroine and most of all her fashion. Yet, despite her influence, the Gibson Girl's popularity owed itself to the times...she was a product of them and an emblem for them, which is why her reach could not extend to another generation. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">The <a href="http://ezinearticles.com/?The-S-Curve-Corset-(1900)-and-the-Straight-Fronted-Corset:-1903---1912&id=272766" target="_blank">Swan-bill corset</a> (or s-curve corset) </span><span style="font-size: small;">aided the Gibson Girl in achieving her signature slender, tall yet curvy figure, plus it was considered to be a healthier choice of corset. Popularized by the medically minded corsitere Inez Gacches-Sarraute as being less harmful to the wearer since it applied less pressure to the stomach area. </span><br />
<a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a6/Coronet_Corset_Co.gif/352px-Coronet_Corset_Co.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a6/Coronet_Corset_Co.gif/352px-Coronet_Corset_Co.gif" width="233" /></a><span style="font-size: small;">By 1900 the corset was beginning to fall out of favor being replaced with girdles that compressed the hips for the new slender skirted styles. Along with the corset, the Gibson Girl also saw her demise with the arrival of world war and from her restless ghost the free-wheeling flapper would be born...not nearly as wholesome as her earlier counterpart, but just as much an icon of her age. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">An issue we confront today with both the Gibson Girl and the Flapper is that we generalize their icon to represent everything from their period. Every dress from the 1920's is "flapper style" and almost every picture of a female or woman's dress from 1900 up to WWI is given the descriptive of "Gibson Girl". Not every American woman living in 1900 wanted to be a Gibson Girl or even dressed as one. Her style definitely dictated much of the fashion trends of her day, but also as much reflected them. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">However, fashion alone did not make a Gibson Girl, like the "Flapper", the Gibson Girl was made up of fashion and attitude. She was athletic, slender, tall, beautiful, independent and her clothing reflected that...small accented waists, long slender skirts and tailored, almost masculine styles. Below is a great example from a Kent State exhibit - a simple white cotton shirtwaist, a slender walking skirt and of course, a small necktie demonstrating the Gibson Girl as a new woman. While we can't truly label a piece of clothing as "Gibson Girl" (unless of course it was documented to be worn by one) we can identify some styles that appear in Gibson's depictions and that suited the supposed lifestyle of the genuine article. What follows are some examples that in my mind suit the Gibson Girl's attitude. Clothes that were simple and beautiful and did not wear the wearer, but accented her natural grace and charm...these garments needed to be functional, yet fashionable and ideally suited for the independent and carefree lifestyle of a Gibson Girl. </span></div>
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White damask blouse c.1900, linen skirt c.1900 - Kent State Museum</div>
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<a href="http://www.augusta-auction.com/auctions/9/358/0358.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://www.augusta-auction.com/auctions/9/358/0358.jpg" width="442" /></a></div>
Cotton day dress - 1895 - Augusta Auctions<br />
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<a href="http://184.106.50.218/piction/ump.show_public_image?v_umo=31598571&call=STANDARD&quality=WEB" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://184.106.50.218/piction/ump.show_public_image?v_umo=31598571&call=STANDARD&quality=WEB" width="358" /></a></div>
Woman's boots, United States, 1910-14<br />
<a href="http://collections.lacma.org/search/site?page=5&f[0]=bm_field_has_image%3Atrue&f[1]=im_field_classification%3A13&f[2]=im_field_curatorial_area%3A38&f[3]=im_field_chronology%3A14328" target="_blank">Los Angeles County Museum of Art - LACA</a><br />
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Summer seaside dress, 1890-1902, Augusta Auctions<br />
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<a href="http://www.augusta-auction.com/auctions/13/42/0042.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://www.augusta-auction.com/auctions/13/42/0042.jpg" width="449" /></a></div>
Silk tea gown, c. 1905 - Augusta Auctions<br />
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Embroidered white linen tea gown, 1903-1906, Augusta Auctions<br />
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<a href="http://collections.mnhs.org/cms/web5/media.php?irn=10013089&width=640&height=640" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://collections.mnhs.org/cms/web5/media.php?irn=10013089&width=640&height=640" width="344" /></a></div>
Gray silk dress made by the Spettel Sisters - St. Paul, MN, ca.1900-1909<br />
Minnesota Historical Society<br />
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<a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/CI58.67.2ab_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/CI58.67.2ab_F.jpg" width="342" /></a></div>
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Walking Suit, American, 1897-98, Metropolitan Museum of Art</div>
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Suit, American, 1902-1904, Metropolitan Museum of Art</div>
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Suit, American, 1892 - Metropolitan Museum of Art</div>
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Sailor suit, American, 1895 - Metropolitan Museum of Art</div>
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Suit, cotton, American - ca.1900 - Metropolitan Museum of Art</div>
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<a href="http://collections.mnhs.org/cms/web5/media.php?irn=10016783&width=640" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://collections.mnhs.org/cms/web5/media.php?irn=10016783&width=640" width="350" /></a></div>
Wool tennis dress - ca. 1910 - Minnesota Historical Society<br />
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<a href="http://collections.mnhs.org/cms/web5/media.php?irn=10013128&width=640" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://collections.mnhs.org/cms/web5/media.php?irn=10013128&width=640" width="426" /></a></div>
Two-piece wool and lace dress, 1901-1904, Minnesota Historical Society<br />
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<a href="http://collections.mnhs.org/cms/web5/media.php?irn=10016094&width=640" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://collections.mnhs.org/cms/web5/media.php?irn=10016094&width=640" width="366" /></a></div>
Linen day dress, created 1901-1902, Minnesota Historical Society<br />
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Bathing suit, 1900-1910, MET Museum<br />
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Bathing suit, Wannamaker's (American), ca.1900<br />
Metropolitan Museum of Art<br />
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Gym suit, 1893-98, American - Metropolitan Museum of Art<br />
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Gym suit, American, 1890's - Metropolitan Museum of Art<br />
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Bicycling ensemble, United States, ca.1898<br />
Los Angeles County Museum of Art - LACA<br />
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Cycling shoes, American, 1895-1900, Metropolitan Museum of Art<br />
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Cycling suit, American, 1896-98, Metropolitan Museum of Art<br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">It is debatable whether or not the <a href="http://gibsonglamor.blogspot.com/2011_11_01_archive.html" target="_blank">Gibson Girl</a> had a positive or negative influence on the women of her day. She was a type of icon that had rarely existed before in such popularity, but in the reality of things, most Gibson Girls (like <a href="http://law2.umkc.edu/faculty/projects/ftrials/thaw/evelynstory1.html" target="_blank">Evelyn Nesbit</a>) often ended up as the mistresses of wealthy men...the only way in a world not quite caught up to them that they could live their so-called "independent" lifestyle. <a href="http://www.encyclopediavirginia.org/Gibson_Irene_Langhorne_1873-1956" target="_blank"> Irene Langhorne</a>, Gibson's own wife was probably closer to the ideal than most came and much of that owed to her husband's own forward thinking. Yet, today the Gibson Girl has emerged as little more than a visual stereotype of a time that would forever shape the future of America and of women. We have reduced her to just a pretty girl with big hair and a small waist. It's a shame, since the Gibson Girl was so much more...regardless of whether you loved her or hated her. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi10CMK40FrDHtvCA08a5TGcOC7SOGQMEQt69j_mKSI8xBYNVH82nMbDYBN-pMAhM5bKATUknUQwmCEDWXzczitNvgc5cgqAJr1eCVJFWl1WIPGi3tq7vkztaekMC6la4cs9zDb-XFZrREW/s1600/Gibson+Girl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi10CMK40FrDHtvCA08a5TGcOC7SOGQMEQt69j_mKSI8xBYNVH82nMbDYBN-pMAhM5bKATUknUQwmCEDWXzczitNvgc5cgqAJr1eCVJFWl1WIPGi3tq7vkztaekMC6la4cs9zDb-XFZrREW/s640/Gibson+Girl.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Le Bombettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07344968780059271389noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-683960682275814706.post-79242597495463560742013-02-20T23:30:00.000-06:002013-02-20T23:30:29.417-06:00Mostly Disney and a Little Bit of History...<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://parksandresorts.wdpromedia.com/media/disneyparks/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/bog2289574SMALL.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://parksandresorts.wdpromedia.com/media/disneyparks/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/bog2289574SMALL.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aggghhhh...the WEST WING! </td></tr>
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So, this weekend I'm headed to Walt Disney World for the <a href="http://www.rundisney.com/princess-half-marathon/" target="_blank">Princess Half-Marathon</a> and to totally geek out on the new <a href="http://disneyworld.disney.go.com/new-fantasyland/?CMP=KNC-WDW13_NFL_DOM|G|4131503.MK.AM.01.01K3P" target="_blank">Fantasyland</a>...and yes, I will most likely cry when I sit down to eat at the <a href="https://disneyworld.disney.go.com/dining/magic-kingdom/be-our-guest-restaurant/" target="_blank">Be Our Guest </a>restaurant. Oh, and by the way feel free to text me encouraging words as I huff and puff my way through 13.1 miles...just go <a href="http://live.xacte.com/princess/alerts/" target="_blank">here </a>to track my progress or lack thereof and cheer me to the finish line. Now, what does my upcoming trip have to do with historical fashions...or really any kind of history at all...well, not much. I really can't justify this post except that I'm rrrreally anxious to be on my way to the "Happy Place" right now! So if you're looking for some serious history...keep moving cause you won't find it in this installment, but serious scholarship (wink, wink) will return at the regular scheduled time next blog post. We all know that in Disney films, historical accuracy in regards to fashion...and pretty much everything else is...well, just a fantasyland. Case in point...every Disney princess...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3e/Disneyland_2012-02-14_Princess_and_Princesses_a.jpg/350px-Disneyland_2012-02-14_Princess_and_Princesses_a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="279" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3e/Disneyland_2012-02-14_Princess_and_Princesses_a.jpg/350px-Disneyland_2012-02-14_Princess_and_Princesses_a.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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And of course, the history presented in the park is as white-washed as Tom Sawyer's fence, but if you take some time to interact with park characters (like the citizens of Main Street U.S.A.) you might be surprised at the fun details in their costumes and the artistry that goes into matching a character's personality with the proper ensemble. In the meantime, you'll have great fun chatting with them and looking beyond the polyester, zippers and Velcro to the <a href="http://www.imagineeringdisney.com/" target="_blank">imagineering</a> skills reflected in those outrageous dresses and hats. Yes, the costumes are theatrical...and of course not historically accurate...but, gosh-darn-it they are fun!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRNKWVZRL9DPmdjCUUXBdhDgSgBABHqYe5g0C74of4Ifuo3fxlFpBPKhtjbo2iLXiuL6D-LvCQWtL1NQ8XFscTv_-IPXvPfIWAabsCVt693NbW_V91nyn3FQZxh24AJDBpQhH4RXYe3f9d/s1600/iphone+4gs+pics+291.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRNKWVZRL9DPmdjCUUXBdhDgSgBABHqYe5g0C74of4Ifuo3fxlFpBPKhtjbo2iLXiuL6D-LvCQWtL1NQ8XFscTv_-IPXvPfIWAabsCVt693NbW_V91nyn3FQZxh24AJDBpQhH4RXYe3f9d/s640/iphone+4gs+pics+291.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Frances Fermata - Main Street matchmaker and Miss Hildegard Olivia Harding - socialite and suffragette<br />Photo by Tonya Staggs</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh_3GUG1TyZmtEHGsuFRuyyf062iF09QFkFGupje04Ii1al2-O8NzxhRfjRtb_5g_nxBaF4_OCKgoF99-WDj9a_CEBM2BKkG76iw2M6E6fKpstzBigRQg99ilY23DHAH1FVrAfogOopKf1/s1600/iphone+4gs+pics+293.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh_3GUG1TyZmtEHGsuFRuyyf062iF09QFkFGupje04Ii1al2-O8NzxhRfjRtb_5g_nxBaF4_OCKgoF99-WDj9a_CEBM2BKkG76iw2M6E6fKpstzBigRQg99ilY23DHAH1FVrAfogOopKf1/s640/iphone+4gs+pics+293.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Victoria Trumpetto in orange and reds and an unknown citizen of Main Street U.S.A<br />Photo by Tonya Staggs</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEpTV6CvIRAqs4MH9NTKVUDBPoexz6r2PFkj6K9TTRtSD9rnRi3wpgBDocern8J96YANQ0aSjz3IUNoMWYTZFGRicveIUeZhMB4_jdU8N95Xp4kcuA0OIYRAl8hrd-teOZKjB1ITJQdkE2/s1600/iphone+4gs+pics+294.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEpTV6CvIRAqs4MH9NTKVUDBPoexz6r2PFkj6K9TTRtSD9rnRi3wpgBDocern8J96YANQ0aSjz3IUNoMWYTZFGRicveIUeZhMB4_jdU8N95Xp4kcuA0OIYRAl8hrd-teOZKjB1ITJQdkE2/s640/iphone+4gs+pics+294.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An unknown citizen captivated by my "fancy" camera<br />Photo by Tonya Staggs</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRrigPTk7FP06n5WbBFm4ww0vfVzQJISyKWpq4HJO_nFOG7SYOJwbR3aCWztaVdAwZpexLaEVM0TxckTgwHsJr6-swPiiRt6wR26Ltf9LLLZdutMPaBSgrRlW1w2I1gYenYlpIyI_q2hv6/s1600/iphone+4gs+pics+304.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRrigPTk7FP06n5WbBFm4ww0vfVzQJISyKWpq4HJO_nFOG7SYOJwbR3aCWztaVdAwZpexLaEVM0TxckTgwHsJr6-swPiiRt6wR26Ltf9LLLZdutMPaBSgrRlW1w2I1gYenYlpIyI_q2hv6/s640/iphone+4gs+pics+304.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Miss DaPointe showing off her fashionable ensemble!<br />Photo by Tonya Staggs</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLJ5wUTb_YbgiSbU-V-4S_ZSGIr3RlTlutP03nU6BAUuFmIhtaLIDTlJiUTPkMR0kFwZhUZLSaVwXxKTsFUvgKRMFUQLYZHxmS_3W2nzez7o49NaTvRONFQq3V84k4utPwGnwPOzoY_OxU/s1600/iphone+4gs+pics+301.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLJ5wUTb_YbgiSbU-V-4S_ZSGIr3RlTlutP03nU6BAUuFmIhtaLIDTlJiUTPkMR0kFwZhUZLSaVwXxKTsFUvgKRMFUQLYZHxmS_3W2nzez7o49NaTvRONFQq3V84k4utPwGnwPOzoY_OxU/s640/iphone+4gs+pics+301.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Miss DaPointe with a budding fashionista deconstructing her look!<br />Photo by Tonya Staggs<br /></td></tr>
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Now I ask...what lover of historical fashion wouldn't want to indulge in those hats, those feathers, those stripes! And because I couldn't leave you without at least an itty-bitty history nerd fest...just take a look at the dresses below, they are extant examples from the MET collection that reminded me of the Main Street USA ladies. Of course, I'm not suggesting you trade in your historically accurate, painstakingly rendered creations for a Disney costume...but, maybe let a little fun and whimsy creep ever-so-slightly into your next project. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/60.38.7a-b_front_CP4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/60.38.7a-b_front_CP4.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1885-88, American, cotton & silk - MET</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/51.61.4a-b_front_CP4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/51.61.4a-b_front_CP4.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ca.1885 - Walking Dress - House of Worth (French) - MET</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/65.239.2_front_CP4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/65.239.2_front_CP4.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1886 American, silk - MET</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/CI49.26ab_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/CI49.26ab_F.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1884, wedding dress, silk, American - MET</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1891-93, American - MET</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1992.295.1ab_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1992.295.1ab_F.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1878, Madame Dellac (American) - MET</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1898, American, silk dress - MET</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/59.166.11a-c_CP4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/59.166.11a-c_CP4.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1893, American - MET</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1995.463.2a%E2%80%93c_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1995.463.2a%E2%80%93c_F.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1880-85, Darlingtion, Runk & Co. (American) - MET<br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/CI41.38.1ab_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/CI41.38.1ab_F.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1882-83, American -MET</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/29.950a-b_front_CP4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/29.950a-b_front_CP4.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ca.1905, American, silk - MET</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/CI46.72.1ab_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/CI46.72.1ab_F.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1900-1905, American - MET</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/C.I.41.164ab_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/C.I.41.164ab_F.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1902-1903, American - MET<br /><br /></td></tr>
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Guess that's enough about historical dresses and totally unrelated Disney stuff since I better quit blogging and get to packing my bags! All aboard for Disney World...woo-hoo!<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtmwpBD0DVZXfhzftBmwegS38siJRh1qdw_LyhSKhqjCgSU2MaPX6oSrdD9eEO6z_b60c8LkCyh1PdkU7bYw0aUjSzsgbYWVAPIH7eYfcO6047oi2cNDwgbyq_R6ffBfkc-pf1piwD3MIA/s1600/iphone+4gs+pics+317.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtmwpBD0DVZXfhzftBmwegS38siJRh1qdw_LyhSKhqjCgSU2MaPX6oSrdD9eEO6z_b60c8LkCyh1PdkU7bYw0aUjSzsgbYWVAPIH7eYfcO6047oi2cNDwgbyq_R6ffBfkc-pf1piwD3MIA/s640/iphone+4gs+pics+317.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Magic Kingdom - Photo by Tonya Staggs</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Disney fashionistas Cruella DeVille and Edna Mode (played by my Mom) <br />approve this blog post!</td></tr>
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Le Bombettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07344968780059271389noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-683960682275814706.post-21134026293236301622013-02-19T00:05:00.002-06:002013-02-19T00:05:39.221-06:00Vinegar Valentines & Space RockWell, we've made it through another Valentine's Day and a meteor so what better way to celebrate than with a belated blog post on Valentine's Day...after all, nothing like a hurtling mass of space rock coming at you to truly appreciate your valentine! A couple of years ago I designed and introduced an education program about Valentine's Day for the historic site where I work. In the research, I found valentine cards and their history quite a bit more interesting then the difficult to pin down origins of the holiday itself. Now, if you want the history of Valentine's Day, which is seriously sketchy then perhaps watching this video with a somewhat disturbing screen shot will help...or scar you.<br />
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Now back to those valentine cards and their interesting history. Well, valentines in some form have been around for quite awhile. Historians have identified the first valentines as love letters which use the term valentine to identify themselves or the recipient...such as, "your beloved valentine". </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ca.1415 - Letter from Charles, Duke of Orleans to his wife <br />while imprisoned in the Tower of London , British Museum</td></tr>
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In England, the celebration of love during February via the fancy-schmancy written word really didn't get going until the 17th and 18th centuries. At that time a valentine might be just a fancy love letter with designs and drawings decorating the paper or an actual printed note of verse. Later on, silhouette-cut cards, puzzle cards and rebuses seemingly became more common as there are some extant examples. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Silhouette Valentine's Day Card - c. 1790 - The British Postal Museum & Archive<br />
<i>Through Flora's gayest, freshest bowers<br />The bees, that hover over the flowers<br />From the brightest, loveliest neatest<br />Know wisely where to choose the sweetest<br />No wonder then that instinct true<br />Conducted them to-night to you.</i><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Often cited as the "oldest" valentine card (not quite true as the one above illustrates) is this puzzle purse valentine c. 1790. Puzzle purses were not only used for Valentine's Day cards, but also to decoratively fold baptismal papers and as a past time for refined young ladies. Much like origami, these folded tokens of love were real works of art and geometry. One of these days soon I'd like to make my own puzzle purse...but reading the instructions sort of hurts my brain. If you'd like to make a true puzzle purse, visit <a href="http://www.victoriantreasury.com/library/2007-01_Puzzle_Purses/" target="_blank">Nancy Rosin's page</a>...she's actually put together a tutorial based on extant examples in her own collection. If you'd like to try it with a more modern...and less mathematical approach, our favorite crafty tycoon Martha Stewart got all late 18th century on Valentine's Day <a href="http://www.marthastewart.com/913837/antique-style-valentine" target="_blank">here</a>. Here's the not-so-oldest valentine, which is part of the British Postal Museum & Archive's collection.</span><br />
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Not to be outdone by the British, here's a super sweet example (below) from the United States, Pennsylvania to be exact. This one was sent to Barbara Hoffman from Peter Shirk and surely must have melted her heart since the two married on Valentine's Day in 1832. All together now...awww, that's so sweet!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.lancasterhistory.org/images/stories/exhibitions/love_letters/puzzle-purse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="391" src="http://www.lancasterhistory.org/images/stories/exhibitions/love_letters/puzzle-purse.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lancaster Historical Society - Puzzle Valentine, ca. 1831</td></tr>
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If that's not enough sappiness American-style for you, then check out <a href="http://www.lancasterhistory.org/" target="_blank">Lancaster County Historical Society's</a> virtual exhibit entitled <a href="http://www.lancasterhistory.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=358&Itemid=164" target="_blank">"Love Letters"</a>...those Quakers were quaking with LUV! But, the puzzle purses don't end there...below is another example from Pennsylvania although little is known </div>
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<a href="http://austenprose.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/odious-mr-collins-in-pride-and-prejudice-1995-x-500.jpg?w=500&h=281" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="110" src="http://austenprose.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/odious-mr-collins-in-pride-and-prejudice-1995-x-500.jpg?w=500&h=281" width="200" /></a>about the sender or recipient. A couple of interns at the <a href="http://www.historicbethlehem.org/" target="_blank">Historic Bethlehem Partnership</a> wrote a <a href="http://historicbethlehem.wordpress.com/2012/02/14/mr-dramas-valentine/" target="_blank">blog post</a> about this charming valentine and decided to name the author Mr. Drama because of his...well, dramatic approach to love. Elizabeth Fry, the recipient was either a very lucky girl to have such a romantically minded beau or she was being stalked by her own Mr. Collins. </div>
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<a href="http://historicbethlehem.files.wordpress.com/2012/02/picture-007-e1329170636641.jpg?w=382" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://historicbethlehem.files.wordpress.com/2012/02/picture-007-e1329170636641.jpg?w=382" width="243" /></a><i>"If you refuse to be my wife it will deprive me of my LIFE/ Pale death at last must stand my friend and bring my sorrow to an end/ Thou art the girl and only maid that hath my tender heart BETRA'D/ Nor never shall my heart have ease until our heart are joind like these."</i> </blockquote>
It was the year 1821, when Mr. Drama made his desperate plea for Elizabeth Fry to be his valentine. Below, is another American example of a puzzle purse valentine...this one sold for $4,370.00 at a <a href="http://www.christies.com/?s_kwcid=TC|1026948|christies%20auction%20house||S|b|9965749407" target="_blank">Christie's</a> auction back in 1999. <br />
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American School - Christie's</td></tr>
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Not all valentines were as sweet as Mr. Drama's or Mr. Shirk's...there was an entire trade in venomous valentines and you were quite as likely to get a "humorous" one as a sweet one. In this case, I'd say "humorous" applied mostly to the sender and not the recipient. These not-so-sweet valentines were often known as "vinegar valentines" and are found among both store bought and handmade cards. In the <a href="http://hcl.harvard.edu/libraries/houghton/" target="_blank">Houghton Library </a>collection at Harvard University there are some amazing hand-drawn vinegar valentines right alongside the sappy ones. Here's a particularly catchy one! This sweetly illustrated verse reads...<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ca.1850 -1860, UK - Houghton Library, Harvard University</td></tr>
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"You nasty and ugly and crabbed old scold/ I shall pity your husband, poor man!/ If e'er you inveigle one into your snare/ which doubtless will if you can./ But I will not marry a vixen like you/ So do not hope me, to ensnare/ Who know if I wed you we should not/ Be a very affectionate pair."</blockquote>
Below is a particularly gruesome and rare example of a vinegar valentine circa the 1860's. Created during the American Civil War this piece of ephemera seems callous and cold to our modern eyes. Could you imagine sending this one to your valentine? See this fascinating <a href="http://www.collectorsweekly.com/articles/happy-valentines-day-i-hate-you/" target="_blank">article</a> in <a href="http://www.collectorsweekly.com/articles/happy-valentines-day-i-hate-you/" target="_blank">Collectors Weekly</a> for more vinegar valentines and their history.<br />
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Now for the intellectually minded romantic there was the rebus...basically a pictogram puzzle, they were often used to represent surnames during the Middle Ages. Rebuses were commonly utilized in the celebration of Valentine's Day and these romantic missives were usually handmade. Take a look at the examples below and see if you can decipher the messages! I'm terrible at decoding rebuses so all I can do is wish you luck! </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chetam's Library - early 19th century rebus</td></tr>
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<a href="http://www.skeals.co.uk/images/Rebus/Rebus%201820%20valentine%20improved%20001_1-%20Reduced.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://www.skeals.co.uk/images/Rebus/Rebus%201820%20valentine%20improved%20001_1-%20Reduced.jpg" width="561" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.skeals.co.uk/Articles/Valentine's%20Day%20Rebus.html" target="_blank">Valentine's Day Rebus </a>dated February 14th, 1820</div>
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Photograph - Mike Welton</div>
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Well, that's about it for this post...hope you had better luck with the rebus puzzles than I did! Here's to surviving another Valentine's Day and a big ol' hurtling space rock! With that I leave you with this riveting meteor footage...by the way, anyone notice how Russians are so used to crashing meteors that no one even pulls over to watch or turns down the crazy techno dance mix! </div>
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Le Bombettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07344968780059271389noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-683960682275814706.post-37813788643816052682013-02-10T20:33:00.000-06:002014-02-11T21:02:41.130-06:00Flapper Era Frou-Frou<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Edward Steichen ca.1920, <a href="http://girlflapper.tumblr.com/page/4" target="_blank">The Flapper Girl </a></td></tr>
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<a href="http://24.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m4asbjMY2q1r5ukgno1_250.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://24.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m4asbjMY2q1r5ukgno1_250.jpg" height="200" width="151" /></a>Lately, my passion for historic fashion has been torn between two decades...the <a href="http://www.fashion-era.com/romantic_era.htm" target="_blank">1820's</a> and the 1920's. They really have nothing to do with each other, except the 20's part. The 1820's was awash with romanticism, frilliness and general pouffy-ness while the 1920's favored the geometric lines of neoclassicism associated today with <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Art_Deco" target="_blank">Art Deco</a>. One could argue that in terms of fashion and cultural upheaval the 1920's and the <a href="http://www.bonjourlafrance.com/france-facts/france-history/first-french-empire.htm" target="_blank">first French Empire</a> (1804-15) had much in common...an embracing of neoclassicism and the relaxing of certain traditional mores. However, the 1820's was in large part a reaction to that earlier time and marked the beginning of a shift toward the repression of the Victorians and so has little in common with the roaring 1920's. I think I've mentioned before that I'm not the biggest fan of Victoria and her stifling influence on the western world. No offense, Victoria fans...but, in real life I highly doubt she was ever as cool as she is in episodes of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tooth_and_Claw_(Doctor_Who)" target="_blank">Doctor Who</a>. Now, off my soapbox and onto what we started with...my two current obsessions...the 1820's and the 1920's. As I said, these two decades have little in common, but we all know material culture is not a monolith...we can point out the over-riding trends in fashion for a particular era, but it's never a good idea to rely on absolutes. For example, in blah, blah decade they never wore blah, blah print in blah, blah color...blah, blah. These trends and patterns can be helpful in understanding history, but they can also blind us to some really cool stuff. Case in point...a label by the name of <a href="http://mrsbertinsjewelrybox.blogspot.com/2012/05/dress-of-week-boue-soeurs-evening-dress.html" target="_blank">Boué Soeurs</a> that was very popular in the 1920's despite an aesthetic that seemingly clashes with the idea of neoclassicism and clean lines as the "<a href="http://oxforddictionaries.com/words/what-is-the-origin-of-the-phrase-the-bee-s-knees" target="_blank">bees knees</a>" for this<a href="http://www.lawlessdecade.net/" target="_blank"> lawless decade.</a> In fact, Boué Soeurs made its name with over the top romanticism...they were shabby chic before it was cool (if it ever was cool that is). Their line along with a handful of other designers, such as <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Callot_Soeurs" target="_blank">Callot Soeurs</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucy,_Lady_Duff-Gordon" target="_blank">Lucile </a>and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeanne_Lanvin" target="_blank">Jeanne Lanvin</a> rebelled against the androgynous and cubist lines of the day to achieve a truly feminine and graceful silhouette.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1979.129.2a_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1979.129.2a_F.jpg" height="320" width="188" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1918-1920<br />
MET Museum</td></tr>
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<a href="http://d.hprints.net/md/30/30997-boue-soeurs-1909-fashion-illustration-art-nouveau-style-hprints-com.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://d.hprints.net/md/30/30997-boue-soeurs-1909-fashion-illustration-art-nouveau-style-hprints-com.jpg" height="320" width="234" /></a>The Boué Soeurs line was created by two sisters, Madame Sylvie Montégut and Baroness Jeanne d'Etreillis, who titled the label after their maiden name of Boué. According to Jeanne in an article from <i><a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=8l8iAQAAMAAJ&pg=RA1-PA121&lpg=RA1-PA121&dq=Arts+and+Decoration+Boue+Soeurs&source=bl&ots=hJVqQUK0ft&sig=pTRUB2alB5cRBX5Ehs18pxAnw0w&hl=en&sa=X&ei=Cy0YUfT1MoSe8QTm3oC4CQ&ved=0CDMQ6AEwAQ#v=onepage&q=Arts%20and%20Decoration%20Boue%20Soeurs&f=false" target="_blank">Arts and Decoration </a></i>(Vol. 16-17, 1922) the sisters began their career by dressing dolls in the fashionable modes of the day and eventually opened their flagship store at 9 Rue de la Paix. Jeanne stated that "we were content only when we had originated a dress that was novel in design and at the same time expressed our own individuality." Little in the way of extant examples exist of their early work...it seems they really hit it big around World War I as their fashions found a place among the courts of Europe and their influence spread far beyond France. They owned "artistic houses" of fashion in Cairo, Egypt, Bucharest, Romania and London and in 1914 opened their New York branch .<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Staff of the Boué Soeurs Headquarter Store in Paris, 1908<br />
Read more about the sisters at <a href="http://mimic-of-modes.blogspot.com/2011/12/boue-soeurs.html" target="_blank">A Most Beguiling Accomplishment</a></td></tr>
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The sisters gained inspiration from spending hours upon hours in the great museums of Europe studying every detail of clothing in the artwork of the great painting masters. From this was born an aesthetic that favored the feminine and incorporated the elements of fine handmade lace, embroidery and ribbon flowers. It was said that <a href="http://www.google.com/patents/USD63123?printsec=drawing#v=onepage&q&f=false" target="_blank">Sylvie Mont<b>é</b>gut</a> was the creative force behind the designs and <a href="http://www.google.com/patents/USD65177?printsec=drawing#v=onepage&q&f=false" target="_blank">Jeanne</a> opened and ran the stores. Sylvie's husband, Philippe Montégut, an opera singer, served as the financial manager, often curbing the extravagant taste of his "darling wife". The company employed their own lacemakers - young girls in the hills of France, as Jeanne recounted in the 1922 article from <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=8l8iAQAAMAAJ&pg=RA1-PA121&lpg=RA1-PA121&dq=Arts+and+Decoration+Boue+Soeurs&source=bl&ots=hJVqQUK0ft&sig=pTRUB2alB5cRBX5Ehs18pxAnw0w&hl=en&sa=X&ei=Cy0YUfT1MoSe8QTm3oC4CQ&ved=0CDMQ6AEwAQ#v=onepage&q=Arts%20and%20Decoration%20Boue%20Soeurs&f=false" target="_blank"><i>Arts and Decoration</i>,</a> "Each peasant girl is trained in proficiency in one particular thing. This is in keeping with our belief that only concentration and an unfettered enthusiasm for the thing to be accomplished can give it the breath of life and the form of beauty." The brand's lacemakers developed a floral patterned lace, worked on a mesh ground and known as Filet Boué that was the signature of the house. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1994.204.1_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1994.204.1_F.jpg" height="400" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1920's<br />
MET Museum</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1979.129.3_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1979.129.3_F.jpg" height="640" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1920-25<br />
MET Museum</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Girl's Dress - 1924-25<br />
<a href="http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2009/08/boue-soeurs.html" target="_blank">FIDM Museum</a></td></tr>
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In New York, the label flourished despite some setbacks. In 1916, the sisters ran into some trouble with U.S. Customs & Immigration after importing a large number of dresses without paying the required taxes and attempting to bring French workers into the United States without proper identification. By July of that same year the charges were dropped after the sisters agreed to pay a $2500 fine and spend 24 hours in jail. Officials decided that an empty office was sufficiently jail-like for the sisters to spend their brief incarceration.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.ellisisland.org/shipping/shipImages/rochambeau.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.ellisisland.org/shipping/shipImages/rochambeau.jpg" height="195" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.ellisisland.org/search/passRecord.asp?MID=12870276950888881440&FNM=SYLVIE&LNM=MONTEGUT&PLNM=MONTEGUT&first_kind=1&last_kind=0&TOWN=null&SHIP=null&RF=13&pID=610130010561" target="_blank">Immigration records</a> for Ellis Island show both Sylvie and<br />
Jeanne travelling to America on more than one occasion in<br />
1916 aboard the SS Rochambeau -<br />
<a href="http://www.cruisebruise.com/archives/thefts/ss_rochambeau_robbery.html" target="_blank">here's an article about a jewel heist aboard the ship in 1915. </a></td></tr>
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Later that year the sisters brought suit against a rival dress shop, <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=0LtOAQAAIAAJ&pg=PA94&lpg=PA94&dq=Boue+soeurs+v.+Hickson&source=bl&ots=r_VFPtR7iF&sig=UHWZhPfJ2ySuVlqrJm4WOFyHeBI&hl=en&sa=X&ei=QiwYUa_hNIq69QTMl4GgAg&ved=0CDIQ6AEwAQ#v=onepage&q=Boue%20soeurs%20v.%20Hickson&f=false" target="_blank">Hickson, Inc.</a> for copying and counterfeiting the Boué Soeurs brand. According to court records the Plaintiffs alleged that their rival hired a young lady to represent herself as a private customer, buying gowns for her own personal use. The lady purchased gowns and a cape and then transferred them to the Defendant who removed the labels and then exhibited the Boué Soeurs dresses and copies of them as his own. They sought $25,000 in damages and requested that the court force Hickson to stop copying and selling their dresses, however the court found that once the dresses were purchased legally the court could not exert control on the outcome of the purchase (<a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=0LtOAQAAIAAJ&pg=PA94&lpg=PA94&dq=Boue+soeurs+v.+Hickson&source=bl&ots=r_VFPtR7iF&sig=UHWZhPfJ2ySuVlqrJm4WOFyHeBI&hl=en&sa=X&ei=QiwYUa_hNIq69QTMl4GgAg&ved=0CDIQ6AEwAQ#v=onepage&q=Boue%20soeurs%20v.%20Hickson&f=false" target="_blank">Montegut v. Hickson, Inc</a>.). Perhaps this incident is what Jeanne alluded to in her comment to <i><a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=8l8iAQAAMAAJ&pg=RA1-PA121&lpg=RA1-PA121&dq=Arts+and+Decoration+Boue+Soeurs&source=bl&ots=hJVqQUK0ft&sig=pTRUB2alB5cRBX5Ehs18pxAnw0w&hl=en&sa=X&ei=Cy0YUfT1MoSe8QTm3oC4CQ&ved=0CDMQ6AEwAQ#v=onepage&q=Arts%20and%20Decoration%20Boue%20Soeurs&f=false" target="_blank">Arts and Decoration</a></i>, "Many competitors have striven to imitate the Boué Soeurs productions but they have invariably failed and for a very simple reason- they have lacked the brains, the experience and artistic intuition which have made this house unique as an institution of supreme originality and superb artistry in dress."<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://blog.diktats.com/wp-content/les_modes_1913_baronne_jeanne_d_etreillis_boue.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://blog.diktats.com/wp-content/les_modes_1913_baronne_jeanne_d_etreillis_boue.jpg" height="400" width="275" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Portrait of Baronne Jeanne d'Etreillis and her<br />
children, published in Les Modes in 1913</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m5admsLzpH1r1w31so1_500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m5admsLzpH1r1w31so1_500.jpg" height="400" width="283" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Model Helen Lyons wearing a dress and cape by <br />
Boué Soeurs, photo by Baron Adolf de Meyer</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.google.com/patents?id=7hBuAAAAEBAJ&pg=PA1&img=1&zoom=4&hl=en&sig=ACfU3U2awIuoncaTt1SqdKEzbSl7MbvbKQ&ci=141%2C389%2C683%2C988&edge=0http://www.google.com/patents/USD65177?printsec=drawing#v=onepage&q&f=false" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.google.com/patents?id=7hBuAAAAEBAJ&pg=PA1&img=1&zoom=4&hl=en&sig=ACfU3U2awIuoncaTt1SqdKEzbSl7MbvbKQ&ci=141%2C389%2C683%2C988&edge=0http://www.google.com/patents/USD65177?printsec=drawing#v=onepage&q&f=false" height="640" width="442" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Patent for a jacket, Boué Soeurs, 1923</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=ggFEAQAAIAAJ&pg=PA414&img=1&zoom=3&hl=en&sig=ACfU3U1i4sS48SCXwOdguV_XWRYyU_vUtA&ci=311%2C142%2C654%2C473&edge=0" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://books.google.com/books?id=ggFEAQAAIAAJ&pg=PA414&img=1&zoom=3&hl=en&sig=ACfU3U1i4sS48SCXwOdguV_XWRYyU_vUtA&ci=311%2C142%2C654%2C473&edge=0" height="462" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
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The sisters were able to achieve a lightness and drape in textiles that became their signature and influenced many later designers. Jeanne bragged that their "artistic house" had created an organdy of the most "exquisite beauty" and linen "in which its texture and transparency a miracle", along with their infamous embroideries that often depicted whimsical scenes and even historical characters. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boué Soeurs Muff</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1976.270.2_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1976.270.2_F.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1915-1925 MET Museum</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/CI51.70.17_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/CI51.70.17_F.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1925 - MET Museum</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1976.263_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1976.263_F.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1927 Wedding Dress - MET Museum</td></tr>
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The Boué Souers New York store was the first French <a href="http://prezi.com/jr2dkjeev5vm/boue-sisters/" target="_blank">haute couture </a>store in the city and besides reaping the benefits of their unique design aesthetic, the sisters also took advantage of a particular niche in the U.S. market - lingerie. The New York branch made it easy for wealthy American women to purchase the much coveted styles of French lingerie. Only recently had stiff corsets been banished for the soft lines and comfort of brassieres (<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mary_Phelps_Jacob" target="_blank">patented by an American woman</a>), silk slips and knickers. Lingerie was just another one of the new fashion experiments of the roaring 20's and the Boué sisters were determined to bring their aesthetic to underclothes as well as evening gowns.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camisole - early 1920's - MET museum<br />
Below, left to right: pajamas - 1928, lingerie - 1927, negligée - 1929, MET</td></tr>
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<a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1974.59.1ab_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1974.59.1ab_F.jpg" height="400" width="141" /> </a><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/CI53.38a_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/CI53.38a_F.jpg" height="400" width="146" /></a> <a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1986.5_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1986.5_F.jpg" height="400" width="128" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://thedreamstress.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/Peach-silk-charmeuse-lingerie-set-brassiere-and-tap-pants-with-lace-appliqu%C3%A9s-and-trim-by-Bou%C3%A9-Soeurs-French-1920s-397x500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://thedreamstress.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/Peach-silk-charmeuse-lingerie-set-brassiere-and-tap-pants-with-lace-appliqu%C3%A9s-and-trim-by-Bou%C3%A9-Soeurs-French-1920s-397x500.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tap Pants and Brassiere by Boué Soeurs, 1920's, Vintage Textiles<br />
Read about "tap pants"courtesy of <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/2012/04/tap-pants-french-knickers-cami-knickers-or-lingerie-shorts/comment-page-1/" target="_blank">The Dreamstress</a> </td></tr>
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As the 1920's passed by, Boué Soeurs altered styles to fit the prevailing modes while still maintaining their signature romantic aesthetic It seems as they moved into the 1930's the heyday of the brand remained in the previous decade. During the years of World War II the sisters closed the Paris branch, but kept the New York shop open. By this time their branch stores in other cities across the globe had closed or were on the brink of quitting business. In 1948, the sisters made a valiant effort to reopen the flagship Paris store, but it never regained its former glory and when the creative genius of Sylvie Montégut passed away in 1953, the gold shop letters were taken down for good. Jeanne maintained the New York store for another three years until illness forced her to close down for good, three months later she died at the age of 81 of congestive heart failure. Those last fading years of the Boué Soeurs label saw their clientele aging just as the brand's creators...the last dying embers of the New York shop was kept alive by a handful of loyal customers who couldn't let go of their beloved couture brand. The "breath of life and form of beauty" created by Sylvie and Jeanne in their unique designs could not live without them and with the death of the Boué sisters came the death of the beautifully artistic, romantic and ethereal label that shared their name and their life. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=ggFEAQAAIAAJ&pg=PA284&img=1&zoom=3&hl=en&sig=ACfU3U0jrGJlrV4ohcB-aQQu93D5Qt2UBw&ci=523%2C48%2C445%2C1245&edge=0" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://books.google.com/books?id=ggFEAQAAIAAJ&pg=PA284&img=1&zoom=3&hl=en&sig=ACfU3U0jrGJlrV4ohcB-aQQu93D5Qt2UBw&ci=523%2C48%2C445%2C1245&edge=0" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Advertisements from Theatre Magazine 1921</td></tr>
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<a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=ggFEAQAAIAAJ&pg=PA422&img=1&zoom=3&hl=en&sig=ACfU3U2b4TLHIDtNc43VdSyN3DnluI6ZiA&ci=66%2C50%2C460%2C1253&edge=0" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><img border="0" src="http://books.google.com/books?id=ggFEAQAAIAAJ&pg=PA422&img=1&zoom=3&hl=en&sig=ACfU3U2b4TLHIDtNc43VdSyN3DnluI6ZiA&ci=66%2C50%2C460%2C1253&edge=0" /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/57.104a-b_front_CP3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/57.104a-b_front_CP3.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Court Presentation Dress (<a href="http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2009/07/robe-de-style.html" target="_blank">Robe de Style- check out a FIDM blog post about this unique 1920's style here</a>) - 1932 to 34 - MET Museum</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/DT267401.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/DT267401.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Court Presentation Ensemble (Robe de Style) - 1928 - MET Museum</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/CI68.48c_d1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/CI68.48c_d1.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail of train - Court Presentation Ensemble - 1928 - MET Museum</td></tr>
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Le Bombettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07344968780059271389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-683960682275814706.post-83933047390581931172013-01-29T08:46:00.000-06:002013-01-29T08:46:10.041-06:001830's Drama Queens<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZd_fvOQ4x0WzAMf3fITzKrN22bOjFPDZaISZhZVvhi13EjifcBNSRF8N2ddnNPE_PGg4cFIaX8PQYZ-Wp1LaChUYweBxjPtw0hRO784nmXMZKqxyYWgwDBccazVlQwSTzZypkHchlM549/s1600/emma.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="175" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZd_fvOQ4x0WzAMf3fITzKrN22bOjFPDZaISZhZVvhi13EjifcBNSRF8N2ddnNPE_PGg4cFIaX8PQYZ-Wp1LaChUYweBxjPtw0hRO784nmXMZKqxyYWgwDBccazVlQwSTzZypkHchlM549/s200/emma.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gurl! Get a Chemisette on...Mr. Knightley<br />
doesn't want your sunburned shoulders!</td></tr>
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For those of us with a love of historical clothing comes an almost requisite love of the costume drama. Of course, the negative side of that is A) you send your significant other screaming from the room when you suggest watching <i><a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0112130/" target="_blank">Pride & Prejudice</a> </i>(Jennifer Ehle version no doubt!) for the 297th time and B) your "literary" friends refuse to watch any period piece movie with you because of your unsolicited running commentary on the historical accuracy of each and every character's ensemble. Yep, we've all been there...alone, very likely in the sewing room, or perhaps the couch...watching <i><a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0116191/" target="_blank">Emma</a></i> and yelling at no one that she really ought to be wearing a <a href="http://www.janeausten.co.uk/the-chemisette/" target="_blank">chemisette</a> with that day dress...puhlease! Ahem...okay, enough embarrassing insight into my life and on to what we're here for...the COSTUME DRAMA! <br />
In particular, I want to introduce you to some...or should I say a few (because they're aren't many) that concern the time period we've been talking about in relation to the book <i><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Sophie-Du-Pont-Sketches-1823-1833/dp/0810911361" target="_blank">Sophie du Pont: A Young Lady in America</a></i>...the 1820's and 30's. So, there isn't a whole lot out there to satisfy your wish of watching <a href="http://main.stylelist.com/2006/08/01/fashion-101-the-leg-of-mutton-sleeve/" target="_blank">leg-o-mutton sleeves</a> (<a href="http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/European-Culture-19th-Century/Gigot-Sleeves.html" target="_blank">Gigot</a> sleeves in 1830's speak) grace the silver screen, but I'll share with you the ones I know...please feel free to share any other suggestions. Keep in mind the list is in no particular order...shall we begin?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhebkvsNdzPJab2B4iWEffiqIbvVCvRHG5-1S2xXt4T7IAcK4a8LmMd4Mc-bo5j0wzKLf8RQC2qf7v3-wugx2cDltGs-ot_SR5aCJzJJWceO8MET5s7DTKEzpQD0LyppghtD0xasU0R3cuz/s1600/Wives+and+Daughters+cover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhebkvsNdzPJab2B4iWEffiqIbvVCvRHG5-1S2xXt4T7IAcK4a8LmMd4Mc-bo5j0wzKLf8RQC2qf7v3-wugx2cDltGs-ot_SR5aCJzJJWceO8MET5s7DTKEzpQD0LyppghtD0xasU0R3cuz/s320/Wives+and+Daughters+cover.jpg" width="233" /></a></div>
<i><b><a href="http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/wives/index.html" target="_blank">Wives & Daughters</a></b></i> - 1999 miniseries, joint production of BBC & WGBH Boston, starring <a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0905311/" target="_blank">Justine Waddell, </a><a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0665473/" target="_blank">Bill Patterson</a>, <a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0000768/" target="_blank">Francesa Annis</a>, <a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0397928/" target="_blank">Anthony Howell</a> (*sigh*) and many other familiar BBC faces. An adaptation of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elizabeth_Gaskell" target="_blank">Elizabeth Gaskell's</a> novel, <a href="http://books.google.com/books/about/Wives_and_Daughters.html?id=tIifpwAACAAJ" target="_blank"><i>Wives and Daughters: An Everyday Story</i>,</a> the story centers around Molly Gibson, the headstrong and quirky daughter of a widowed country doctor and her struggles with a wicked stepmother, beautiful stepsister and love. In my opinion, it's a great movie and they did a very good job with the costuming, especially for this little understood time period. Much of Molly's wardrobe is a bit more 1820's in style, while her Stepmother and Stepsister wear the height of 1830's fashion with huge gigot sleeves and elaborate hair pieces. This speaks to Molly's simple but elegant taste and her character. Keep in mind, that during much of the 19th Century being too fashionable was often seen as reflective of a character flaw...selfish, greedy, vain, etc. In addition to the lovely costumes the story is great...true to form of Mrs. Haskell's work. If you love <a href="http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/cranford/" target="_blank"><i>Cranford</i></a> then you should enjoy <i>Wives & Daughters</i>. Here's a few examples of extant dresses that remind me of Molly's simple style...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1972.139.9_F.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1972.139.9_F.JPG" width="206" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cotton dress, British, c.1827<br />
MET Collections</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/DT6847.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/DT6847.jpg" width="146" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">American or European, 1830's<br />
MET Collections</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://media-cache0.pinterest.com/upload/225672631297856162_m81KkFJM_c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://media-cache0.pinterest.com/upload/225672631297856162_m81KkFJM_c.jpg" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cotton dress 1825-1835<br />
Tasha Tudor Collection - Augusta Aucti</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">George Eliot (Mary Anne Evans)<br />Click here for a great article<br />from the New Yorker on Eliot's<br />childhood home, Griff House.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/8c/Rosamond_and_Tertius_Lydgate.jpg/397px-Rosamond_and_Tertius_Lydgate.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/8c/Rosamond_and_Tertius_Lydgate.jpg/397px-Rosamond_and_Tertius_Lydgate.jpg" width="131" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The fashionably annoying<br />
Rosamond</td></tr>
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<a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0108858/" target="_blank"><i>Middlemarch</i> </a>- Another BBC production, this one aired in 1994 with seven episodes. The adaptation was based on the 1871 novel, <a href="http://www.goodreads.com/book/show/19089.Middlemarch" target="_blank"><i>Middlemarch: A Study of Provincial Life</i> </a>by <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/George_Eliot" target="_blank">George Eliot </a>(Mary Anne Evans). The novel/ movie are set in the fictional town of Middlemarch during the period of 1830-32 and focuses on many of the towns characters, but in particular Dorothea Brooke, played by <a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0041411/" target="_blank">Juliet Aubrey</a>. Again, this one stars many familiar BBC faces such as <a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0388061/" target="_blank">Douglas Hodge</a>, <a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0362735/" target="_blank">Robert Hardy</a>, usual baddie <a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0001722/" target="_blank">Rufus Sewell</a> and Colin Firth's little brother, <a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0278746/" target="_blank">Jonathan Firth</a>. This is a great series and received tons of praise and awards on the other side of the pond. Matter of fact, it even inspired a cottage industry of <i>Middlemarch</i> inspired stuff, from spin-off novels and comics to lectures and debates. As far as the costuming, it's pretty good...however, Dorothea being quite the intellectual dresses somewhat plain and in general the backwater burg of Middlemarch is lacking in fashion know-how. The vain and remarkably annoying Rosamond is a spoiled fashionista with some fantastic dresses...the only problem is you have to watch her to see them. This is another series I would highly recommend...it's not as funny as <i>Cranford</i> and not as depressing as a Dickens adaptation, but tows the line in-between with just the right amount of humor and tragedy with some great costumes thrown in for good measure.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/DP102008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/DP102008.jpg" width="355" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Intellectual Dorthea would stick to elegant and<br />
sensible dark silks with little adornment.<br />
European, 1832-35, silk, MET</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://media-cache0.pinterest.com/upload/225672631299810002_qxPlj6CX_c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://media-cache0.pinterest.com/upload/225672631299810002_qxPlj6CX_c.jpg" width="242" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fashionable and vain Rosamond would<br />
go for the extra-large puffs!<br />
British, ca.1830, cotton walking dress, MET </td></tr>
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<i><a href="http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/littledorrit/" target="_blank">Little Dorrit</a> - </i>The 2008 miniseries production of BBC and WGBH Boston is an adaptation of <a href="http://charlesdickenspage.com/" target="_blank">Charles Dickens</a>' serial novel by the same name. The novel was originally published between 1855 and 1857, consisting of 19 monthly installments at a cost of about a shilling each. The story centers around Amy Dorrit and her father who both live in the infamous debtors prison <a href="http://knowledgeoflondon.com/marshalsea.html" target="_blank">Marshalsea</a>. The story twists and turns as Dickens is prone to do so you'll just have to watch the series (or better yet read the book) to know what happens. There have been a few adaptations of the novel, however the most recent one is at the top of my list. The cast includes <a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm2946516/" target="_blank">Claire Foy</a>, <a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0532193/" target="_blank">Matthew Macfadyen,</a> <a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0665473/" target="_blank">Bill Patterson </a>(again), <a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0183822/" target="_blank">Tom Courtenay</a> and a whole slew of characters that'll keep you going..."wait, wasn't that, yep it was", through every episode. <i><a href="http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-1080276/The-real-Little-Dorrit-inspiration-Dickens-classic-novel-single-mother-turned-prostitute.html" target="_blank">Little Dorrit</a></i> (click on the link for a great article about the inspiration for Amy's character) is one of my favorite costume dramas. I admit I'm biased because I love pretty much any Dickens adaptation, but more than that it was just great costuming (with some occasional minor missteps). The novel begins in 1826 and this particular adaptation did a great job in conveying the fashion changes of the period...the wealthier folks wear the latest styles of increasingly puffy sleeves and large bonnets, while the elderly or the poor still sport empire fashions. Also, the characters were portrayed in large part by their clothing. Sweet, kind and giving, Amy is neatly dressed and lovely, but slightly out of fashion in her higher-waist dresses and narrower skirts. Meanwhile, her sister, a dance hall girl, flirts her way into getting fashionable clothes though decidedly lacking in taste. It's fitting that big lug John Chivery, assistant turnkey of Marshalsea, puts on his best clothes complete with a fetching belcher to profess his love of Amy. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEO4E5DOD7CaQp6algt-YGKb-_juQmVlkbMDk6Fc4mWmlXSLdvzff-uX-7y1tP3s3Mbl_nO74QDZSPh1-MEm4tn0hxcPCvCc7wqdw_lM4IBdILR85U6FvzLH-bOr3fSAcaSUv6j2iuLC3R/s1600/belcher.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEO4E5DOD7CaQp6algt-YGKb-_juQmVlkbMDk6Fc4mWmlXSLdvzff-uX-7y1tP3s3Mbl_nO74QDZSPh1-MEm4tn0hxcPCvCc7wqdw_lM4IBdILR85U6FvzLH-bOr3fSAcaSUv6j2iuLC3R/s320/belcher.jpg" width="264" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tough, but well mannered, Jem Belcher<br />might just smack you for belching</td></tr>
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A belcher (no, not a teenage boy) was a brightly colored neck cloth named after the bare-knuckle prize fighter <a href="http://www.nybooks.com/articles/archives/2003/feb/27/the-romantic-pugilist/?pagination=false" target="_blank">Jem Belcher</a>. By the way, Dr. Who fans will recognize some familiar faces in the cast, and perhaps even the work of costume designer, <a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0452225/" target="_blank">Barbara Kidd</a>.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2006AF/2006AF6627_jpg_ds.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2006AF/2006AF6627_jpg_ds.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amy Dorrit might not be caught<br />dead in such an ensemble...but I might!</td></tr>
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<i><a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0962736/" target="_blank">The Young Victoria</a></i> - Now, of course we can't leave out a recent fave of many costume drama devotees...<i><a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0962736/" target="_blank">The Young Victoria</a>. </i>A feature film, released in 2009 and starring <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br /><a href="http://www.victorianstation.com/images/v66.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.victorianstation.com/images/v66.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"The Old Victoria" just didn't have<br />the same ring to it...</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6S22fHji0JuYjRzP1KCOiTspgbSFELsopkfcgsD5FUbinpoEj5-93A7gCmvNaWl2FhzZ0JF7iPnLddNylcRkmjybzJlCdCcDL5cldLwHAmkGnzjjzGoWRq2Bd0FvgZbGLsdOb99Cj3AFT/s1600/youngvictoria.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6S22fHji0JuYjRzP1KCOiTspgbSFELsopkfcgsD5FUbinpoEj5-93A7gCmvNaWl2FhzZ0JF7iPnLddNylcRkmjybzJlCdCcDL5cldLwHAmkGnzjjzGoWRq2Bd0FvgZbGLsdOb99Cj3AFT/s1600/youngvictoria.jpg" /></a><a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm1289434/" target="_blank">Emily Blunt,</a> <a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm1670029/" target="_blank">Rupert Friend</a> and <a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0079273/" target="_blank">Paul Bettany</a>, it wowed us with stunning sets and costumes. Who didn't envy the Queen's wardrobe..and those hairstyles? But...I'm not the biggest fan of Queen Victoria so I had significant issues with the story line and characters that big, puffy sleeves just couldn't overcome. Plus, the movie is set in 1836 and by that point the styles are beginning to change once again toward the pointed bodices and cleaner lines of the 1840's, style changes that owed much to Victoria's influence...did I say I'm not a big fan of the big Queen V? I did enjoy the movie, but it's one of those that I probably won't watch over and over again. Some of the costuming ..such as the sheer bonnets were dead accurate and much of that owed to the stalker like reporting of what Queen Victoria wore at every public appearance and of course to the talents of Oscar winning costume designer, <a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0694309/awards" target="_blank">Sandy Powell</a> (she won one for this film). If you're in search of great costume eye candy of the 1830's (mostly the later 1830's) and sappy romanticism, then <i><a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0962736/" target="_blank">The Young Victoria</a></i> is your movie! <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.laobserved.com/intell/assets_c/2010/02/costumes-young-victoria-thumb-400x284-2475.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="283" src="http://www.laobserved.com/intell/assets_c/2010/02/costumes-young-victoria-thumb-400x284-2475.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The bald mannequins totally creep me out!<br />(Costumes from The Young Victoria)<br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCvNJ2-AzzJtOan3k4Eia47PQtE_cG3Kwpg7yHU3iV60tK-e38LZXoY67VlE1_gVhRyJAcC2AETowZ9pFdji6tQG6bEX301G6_8pVSOJXMSNhF2WXeESPXvREPjdkJrHL9tHYO1pJxkszG/s1600/600full-the-scarlet-and-the-black-screenshot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCvNJ2-AzzJtOan3k4Eia47PQtE_cG3Kwpg7yHU3iV60tK-e38LZXoY67VlE1_gVhRyJAcC2AETowZ9pFdji6tQG6bEX301G6_8pVSOJXMSNhF2WXeESPXvREPjdkJrHL9tHYO1pJxkszG/s320/600full-the-scarlet-and-the-black-screenshot.jpg" width="244" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oh, hunky young Ewan...can you save this<br />movie from absolute awfulness?<br /><br /></td></tr>
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<i><a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0106124/" target="_blank">Scarlet and Black </a></i> - Well, this is one that I slightly cringe at putting on the list because I thought it almost un-watchable...almost...you see it stars a young <a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0000191/" target="_blank">Ewan McGregor</a> and it has fairly good costuming so if you turn the volume down and just stare at the eye candy...then it's tolerable. The 1993, four-part BBC series, also starred a teenage <a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0001838/" target="_blank">Rachel Weisz</a>, the elegantly haunting <a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0000481/" target="_blank">Alice Krige</a> and our favorite Mr. Bingley, <a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0094502/" target="_blank">Crispin Bonham-Carter</a>. The series is based on the 1830 novel, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Red_and_the_Black" target="_blank"><i>The Red and the Black (Le Rouge et le Noir)</i></a> by the French novelist, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stendhal" target="_blank">Stendhal (Mari-Henri Beyle)</a>. Occurring from 1826 to 1831, the historical psychological novel (pretty much lost me there) strove to be both a psychological study of the protagonist Julien Sorel and a satire of French society under the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bourbon_Restoration" target="_blank">Bourbon Restoration</a>. Let me translate...so this poor, smart kid gets educated by the clergy, but he's always questioning the man so he takes off to find his own way and by the way, he has visions of <a href="http://www.biography.com/people/napoleon-9420291" target="_blank">Napoleon</a>. Along the way he meets and falls in love with a kindly cougar and a spoiled socialite...neither relationship goes very well and in the end everything pretty much sucks. Did I mention it stars a young Ewan McGregor?<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://zoom.mfa.org/fif=sc1/sc119700.fpx&obj=iip,1.0&wid=568&cell=568,427&cvt=jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://zoom.mfa.org/fif=sc1/sc119700.fpx&obj=iip,1.0&wid=568&cell=568,427&cvt=jpeg" width="296" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">French, about 1830, MFA Boston</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lp2sylGRA31qcddvlo1_500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lp2sylGRA31qcddvlo1_500.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ca.1830, LA Museum of Art</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFQ7LhE_8L6jcXOJ82c3Lrt5IgcAqrVUlWfw5y5tRUovUPYu86ikQqYFYlcswr_0xkwmz3TrYcX_crAXCLYZX7NSvXTFo9_3HfrqPnMZtPBxMgi10KEeRy-10orLPW3XQjf6w_kcZ78Xkz/s1600/1830,+lamode+Paris.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFQ7LhE_8L6jcXOJ82c3Lrt5IgcAqrVUlWfw5y5tRUovUPYu86ikQqYFYlcswr_0xkwmz3TrYcX_crAXCLYZX7NSvXTFo9_3HfrqPnMZtPBxMgi10KEeRy-10orLPW3XQjf6w_kcZ78Xkz/s320/1830,+lamode+Paris.JPG" width="212" /></a></div>
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In case that's not enough for you, here are a few more<br />
films that contain some 1820's/30's, but not quite enough<br />
to be a full-fledged costume drama for this period...<br />
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<i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Les_Mis%C3%A9rables" target="_blank">Les Miserables</a> </i>(pretty much any adaptation, musical or not) -<br />
Victor Hugo's classic is set in the 1830's, unfortunately there's not a whole lot of cutting edge fashion in French prisons! I thouroughly enjoyed the new musical-based release and there are some other great adaptations of the novel...you'll find a review of them <a href="http://www.stuartfernie.org/Misfilms.htm" target="_blank">here</a>. The version<br />
released in 2000 with <a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0000367/" target="_blank">Gerard Depardieu</a> as Jean Valjean and <a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0000518/" target="_blank">John Malkovick</a> as Javert (heck yeah!) got great reviews and is available on Netflix.<br />
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<i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jane_Eyre" target="_blank">Jane Eyre</a></i> - While most of the story takes place in the 1840's, the really scary part...Jane's childhood is set in the 1830's. Multiple adaptations are available with at least two on Netflix and the most recent version, released in 2011 is on <a href="http://www.target.com/p/jane-eyre-2011-original-motion-picture-soundtrack/-/A-13353475?ref=tgt_adv_XSG10001&AFID=Google_PLA_df&LNM%7C13353475&CPNG=NoCPNG&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=13353475&kpid=13353475&LID=PA&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=13353475" target="_blank">DVD</a>.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq5eetsbSjNu5r1Grtz-JnDx_vgaBWt5tgZDatquSu0bFBfAZLA1-wuCBb132668lNOL315KlVb8Y6bqJbVtIroiYmeVYHYMolTKVZ3w43rZpO1OhhL635LiOnIl_eLslLN22guWT6qr3N/s1600/swashbuckle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq5eetsbSjNu5r1Grtz-JnDx_vgaBWt5tgZDatquSu0bFBfAZLA1-wuCBb132668lNOL315KlVb8Y6bqJbVtIroiYmeVYHYMolTKVZ3w43rZpO1OhhL635LiOnIl_eLslLN22guWT6qr3N/s200/swashbuckle.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Swashbuckling ensues!</td></tr>
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<i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Count_of_Monte_Cristo" target="_blank">The Count of Monte Cristo</a> - </i>A good compromise to watch<br />
the 2002 version with the fella...you get eye candy in the way of <a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0001602/" target="_blank">Guy Pearce</a> and <a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0001029/" target="_blank">Jim Caviezel</a> and he gets sword fights and the beautiful Mercedes, played by <a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0231436/" target="_blank">Dagmara Dominczyk</a>. The downside is with all the swashbuckling going on there's not much time for pretty dresses.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/db/Die_junge_George_Sand.jpg/200px-Die_junge_George_Sand.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/db/Die_junge_George_Sand.jpg/200px-Die_junge_George_Sand.jpg" width="153" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">George Sand not in pants</td></tr>
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<i><a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0102103/" target="_blank">Impromptu</a></i> - 1991 film starring <a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0000424/" target="_blank">Hugh Grant</a> and <a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0001114/" target="_blank">Judy Davis</a> that is set in 1830's France and examines the strained relationship between composer<br />
<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fr%C3%A9d%C3%A9ric_Chopin" target="_blank">Frederic Chopin</a> and the authoress <a href="http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/521896/George-Sand" target="_blank">George Sand</a>. Sand was one tough lady and to show it she often wore men's clothing...hence the lack of lovely 1830's ladies fashions in this odd, but likable film.<br />
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This list is no means exhaustive...I left out many older movies simply because the costuming tends to be a general "old timey" look and not necessarily period specific. You can find <i>Middlemarch, Wives & Daughters, Impromptu, Scarlet and Black, </i>and various versions of <i>Les Miserables</i> and <i>Jane Eyre</i> on <a href="https://signup.netflix.com/?ca_adid=18614182764&ca_agid=4353256884&ca_chid=2001704&ca_cid=12623861&ca_pos=1t1&ca_source=gaw&mqso=80033270&gclid=CNyEyp3tjLUCFRRbnAod0w8AUQ" target="_blank">Netflix</a>. Happy watching and feel free to share your own favorite 1820's/1830's costume dramas!<br />
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<br />Le Bombettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07344968780059271389noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-683960682275814706.post-81078378092049003402013-01-22T22:34:00.001-06:002013-01-22T22:34:49.141-06:00The ever-so-fashionable Ivanhoe<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">As a follow-up to my welcome post, I thought it might be fun to explore a little bit of the fashions of Sophie du Pont's drawn world. The sketches, diaries and letters used in the book, <i>Sophie du Pont - A Young Lady in America</i> date from 1823 to 1833. Not only is this one of my favorite periods in fashion it also is one of the least studied and understood. The middle period between empire waists and crinolines...it's an odd time in fashion. I say it's sort of like the Little Bo Peep look...on acid. A backlash to the form fitting empire style dresses began in the 18-teens and was evident in the puffs, laces and general frilliness that began to overtake women's fashions in Europe and America. Inspired by the romanticism of the period, fashion turned to castles, knights and the Renaissance and gradually away from the classic lines of ancient Greece.</span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.historytoday.com/sites/default/files/fashion_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="171" src="http://www.historytoday.com/sites/default/files/fashion_1.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="background-color: white; font-style: italic; line-height: 18.53125px;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">A Lady with a Drawing of Lucretia, by Lorenzo Lotto,<br /> </span></span><span style="background-color: white; font-style: italic; line-height: 18.53125px;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">c. 1530-33. Copyright Bridgeman Art Library 2010</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: xx-small;"><span style="line-height: 18.53125px;">Check out these guns!</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/0/06/Ivanhoe_(1952_movie_poster).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/0/06/Ivanhoe_(1952_movie_poster).jpg" width="208" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Nothing says Ivanhoe like black tulle<br />
and geranium satin!</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">The change was gradual and empire waists persisted in high fashion far into the mid 1820's. Sleeves gradually got puffier and waists had more ups and downs than a roller coaster! Perhaps we should narrow it down a bit and look specifically at the years, oh, let's say 1820 & 1821. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Sophie du Pont is just 10 years old and probably more concerned with dolls and practicing needlework rather than fashion. </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">To understand a little bit more about these years in fashion I want to focus on the work of Elisabeth McClellan, </span><i style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><a href="http://openlibrary.org/books/OL7043043M/Historic_dress_in_America_1800-1870" target="_blank">Historic Dress in America</a>. </i><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">The book was published in 1904 and is perhaps my favorite book on historic clothing. Many folks today complain about the lack of illustrations, or the overwhelming amount of information...but, those are things I enjoy about the book. I love reading her descriptions - trying to imagine the outfit she is describing, somehow I try harder to "see" it rather than just looking at an illustration. McClellan can overwhelm you with information, but many of the resources she had access to have long since vanished leaving her work as an invaluable source. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Now onto the fashion! She begins 1820 by relating that black dresses "came into favour" and the fashion world introduced two new fabrics with plume velvet and levantine satin - both used for evening dresses. Furthermore, highland tartans had experienced ups and downs in popularity for the last five </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">years but "became a pronounced fashion in 1820, even for evening dresses". <a href="http://www.archive.org/stream/historicdressina00mccl#page/140/mode/2up" target="_blank">(McClellan, p.141)</a> </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">The newly published romance <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ivanhoe" target="_blank">"Ivanhoe"</a> shared title with a black tulle and geranium satin evening cap. McClellan continues to dissect the style changes of 1820 and moves from the fashionable influence of the Scots to the overwhelming use of flounces. ;)</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr/local/cache-vignettes/L750xH1470/M-2009-0159-JT-f5cd7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr/local/cache-vignettes/L750xH1470/M-2009-0159-JT-f5cd7.jpg" width="163" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">cotton dress, France, 1818-1820<br />
Les Arts Decoratifs<br />
Let's Count the Flounces!</td></tr>
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<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">"We notice at this time frequent mention of flounces as trimming for ball dresses, but it soon became fashionable to trim everything with flounces." <a href="http://www.archive.org/stream/historicdressina00mccl#page/142/mode/2up/search/143" target="_blank">(McClellan, p.143) </a> </span></blockquote>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/85.68_CP3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/85.68_CP3.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ca. 1820 turban, silk, British<br />
MET Museum<br />
That's one pouffy turban!</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Beyond flounces and trims of every kind worn for day and evening we also learn that turbans "were still worn in every variety of material, Chinese crape and <a href="http://byrios.blogspot.com/2011_02_01_archive.html" target="_blank">Peruvian gauze</a> being favourites". <a href="http://www.archive.org/stream/historicdressina00mccl#page/142/mode/2up" target="_blank">(McClellan, pg.143) </a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Young married ladies in Paris had a preference for richly embroidered turbans fastened with gold brooches and embellished with feathers of herons, <a href="http://www.sewinspiring.co.uk/acatalog/feathers_luxury_designer_needlework_textile_millinery_feathers.html" target="_blank">marabouts</a>, ostriches, or birds-of-paradise. Metallic gauze persisted as being fashionable in both evening hats and turbans. Transparent </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">fluted bonnets with a wreath of ribbons trimming the crown and edged with plaited gauze were all the rage. The fashion for transparency continued in the introduction of many new fancy gauze's in 1821 designed especially for bonnets and headdresses. The meaning of names were already lost on Elisabeth McClellan when she penned her costume history at the turn of the 20th century. Marbled gauze, marabout gauze, deluge gauze, and flowered gauze tempt our imagination with their mysterious meanings. <a href="http://www.archive.org/stream/historicdressina00mccl#page/146/mode/2up" target="_blank">(McClellan, pg.147)</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Silk dresses for evening and half dress challenged the ever-popular muslin for reign supreme. McClellan describes these silk frocks ornamented with silk </span><a href="http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/quilling" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;" target="_blank">quilling</a><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> arranged in bias to create a "rich effect", perhaps resembling the dresses pictured below. <a href="http://www.archive.org/stream/historicdressina00mccl#page/146/mode/2up/search/147" target="_blank">(McClellan, pg.147)</a> Additionally, black velvet dresses ornamented with beads were fashionable for evening parties and "white cachemire dresses, trimmed at the border with three bands of satin, are much worn at the Parisian tea parties."<a href="http://www.archive.org/stream/historicdressina00mccl#page/154/mode/2up" target="_blank">(McClellan, pg.154)</a></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ca.1820 Silk dress, American, Old Sturbridge Village</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1820 silk dress, American MET Museum</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">1823-1825 silk velvet dress, Scotland<br />V&A Collection</span></td></tr>
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<a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/69.2.5_front_CP4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/69.2.5_front_CP4.jpg" width="262" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1824 silk wedding dress, American<br />
MET Museum<br />
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Portrait of a Lady, ca. 1820 - Andrew Mellon Collection<br />
Check out the amazing collar of her pelisse....puh-leezz girl!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Zenaide & Charlotte Bonaparte, 1821<br />by Jacques-Louis David<br />Napoleon's nieces - the eldest, Zenaide wears<br />a black velvet dress<br /><br /></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Pelisses were still very much in fashion and the authoress shares a coveted ensemble of a gray levantine pelisse trimmed down the front and around the bottom with "puffings" of the same material, a satin bonnet of a marguerite color, a plain fichu of find India muslin, slippers of grey kid, a beaded reticule and lemon-colored gloves. Marguerite was likely a light pink or yellow owing to the <a href="http://bloomiq.com/sites/bloomiq.com/files/imagecache/plant_375px_wide_310px_heigh/plant_images/111592.003.jpg" target="_blank">Marguerite daisy</a> which came in both colors. </span><a href="http://www.archive.org/stream/historicdressina00mccl#page/154/mode/2up" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;" target="_blank">(McClellan, pg.155)</a><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ca.1820 silk pelisse, American<br />
MET Museum</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Now, from </span>pelisses<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> to hats we have much to learn perhaps Ms. McClellan can educate us a bit:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">"The hats are somewhat smaller in the brims, though there are some hats which are bent down in the shape of bonnets: straw hats of every shape, are now becoming very general for walking; <a href="http://www.thefreedictionary.com/leghorn+hats" target="_blank">Leghorn hats</a> have already made their appearance; the brims much narrower than formerly; they are ornamented with a narrow scarf of plaid silk, forming a circular drapery. These hats are placed on one side, and the hair that is exposed is arranged in full curls or ringlets." <a href="http://www.archive.org/stream/historicdressina00mccl#page/152/mode/2up/search/153" target="_blank">(McClellan, pg. 153)</a> She goes on to advise that, "The most tasteful bonnet for walking is a curled plush silk of beautiful pink; and grey hats with flowers of the same colour, made of velvet or chenille, are in very great favour."<a href="http://www.archive.org/stream/historicdressina00mccl#page/152/mode/2up/search/153" target="_blank">(McClellan, pg.153)</a> </span></blockquote>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Georgian Cut Steel Earrings -1820<br /><br /><br /><br /></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Of course, the fashionable belles that you are I'm sure you are dying to know the most vogue accessories to wear with your velvet and silk frocks. First, is the parasol with the most elegant of India muslin, "embroidered with a beautiful border in <a href="http://stitchschool.blogspot.com/2009/12/stitch-school-feather-stitch.html" target="_blank">feather stitch</a>, instead of fringe; the edge is finished with broad <a href="http://www.lynxlace.com/bobbinlace18th.html" target="_blank">Mechlin </a><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mechlin_lace" target="_blank">lace</a>, about four inches in breadth...lined with azure blue, shot with white; the stick and handle are of polished steel, the thick part is beautifully wrought and the handle is formed like the leaf of the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acanthus_(ornament)" target="_blank">acanthus</a>."</span><a href="http://www.archive.org/stream/historicdressina00mccl#page/152/mode/2up/search/153" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;" target="_blank">(McClellan, pg.152) </a><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">The mode in jewelry is polished steel. "A brooch of polished steel confines the gown to the bust, and another is placed in the back between the shoulders", a look most elegant in the following description.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">"A very pretty woman appeared in public last week and all her numerous ornaments were of polished steel: her dress was a <a href="http://tjdemogarden.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/dsc_0237-e1309187159221.jpg?w=199&h=300" target="_blank">marshmallow-blossom colour</a>, which admirably set off the superb brooches she wore in front of her bust, and at her back." <a href="http://www.archive.org/stream/historicdressina00mccl#page/152/mode/2up/search/153" target="_blank">(McClellan, pg.152)</a></span></blockquote>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1826 hand motif necklace<br />seed pearls, gold, emerald, diamond <br />and ruby </td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Gold jewelry still had its place in fashion as we are told that richly embroidered turbans are secured with gold brooches and belts with gold clasps in the form of two hands locked together. </span><a href="http://www.archive.org/stream/historicdressina00mccl#page/152/mode/2up/search/153" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;" target="_blank">(McClellan, pg. 152)</a><br />
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Whew! It's not easy being fashionable in the 1820's. Hope you learned a little bit and are inspired to read much further into Elisabeth McClellan's,</span><i style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><a href="http://openlibrary.org/books/OL7043043M/Historic_dress_in_America_1800-1870" target="_blank"> Historic Dress in America</a></i><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">. Maybe on your next 1820's dress project you can add a style element or two featured here. Now, if someone could just make an inexpensive reproduction of that sweet hand motif necklace...well, that would be...sweet! :)</span><br />
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Le Bombettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07344968780059271389noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-683960682275814706.post-86697930712001772092013-01-21T00:29:00.000-06:002013-01-21T00:29:05.396-06:00Welcome!<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Welcome to the first post of my blog! Ideally it will be a </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">foray into historical fashions...in particular American and European fashions from the 18th and 19th centuries. I'll very likely take a detour now and again into other lands and decades and oftentimes venture beyond just fashion. Now, you're probably a little curious about the title...so, let me explain. Well, first off I love, love, love history and especially anything that gives me a glimpse into who the people of the past really were. What did they feel, how did they live, are they more like us than we might suppose? So, a while back I stumbled upon a little book in the library of my workplace...which just happens to be a historic house museum. There among dusty tomes on Federal architecture and 19th Century glassware sat this little gem of a book that I had probably passed by a gazillion times. This time though we found each other and since then I always find an excuse to take it off the shelves....ahem, like for this blog post. Not to mention, it also has given a rise to a slight obsession with finding other such books. There will be a blog </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">post or two on those other little treasures later. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihMj748dtg5ilesR2wHmetG-iE2eoii_e1EOsEw69JRAmG2yhLtH7oOIb-zmgxMh_5Tg7NYgRXEem_00N-2wn3m8niMpKFW_KOHJ6PkzmYX0KXV3vg4U3jPpyZHqToUNLZ-4BNQZRKIzoe/s1600/sophiedupont.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihMj748dtg5ilesR2wHmetG-iE2eoii_e1EOsEw69JRAmG2yhLtH7oOIb-zmgxMh_5Tg7NYgRXEem_00N-2wn3m8niMpKFW_KOHJ6PkzmYX0KXV3vg4U3jPpyZHqToUNLZ-4BNQZRKIzoe/s320/sophiedupont.jpg" width="292" /></a><i style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">"Sophie du Pont - A Young Lady in America"</i><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> by Betty Bright Low and Jacqueline Kinsley is a glimpse into the life of Sophie Madeleine du Pont (1810 - 1888) through her letters, diaries and most endearing...her sketches. </span><span style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Sophie was the daughter of Eleuthere Irenee du Pont, the gunpowder manufacturer and ancestor of the later industrial giant DuPont. Her life was idyllic...a perfect mix of wealth and comfort, but belonging to the first generation of that emerging empire still unspoiled and happy with the simple pleasures of life. Sophie's sketches and the "world" she created are both hilarious and magical. The letters, diaries and sketches chronicled in the book are in the time period of 1823-1833. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sophie Madeleine du Pont (1810-1888)<br />
painted by Rembrandt Peale<br />
Hagley Museum & Library </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eleuthere Irenee du Pont (11771-1834)<br />
painted by Rembrandt Peale<br />
Hagley Museum & Library</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">All that and I still haven't explained the blog title yet. Well, I don't want to spoil the book for you but the title is a caption related to my favorite of Sophie's drawings. I'll keep the caricature a surprise, but I will say this...the title of it "Preparations for a Wedding - adorning the paranymphe" might give a bit of a hint. Sophie usually included the dialogue of what had transpired with her sketches since she tended to capture interesting scenes that took place among her friends and family. "Discompose the altitude of my puffs" is a phrase that appears along with a particularly charming scene and I fell in love with it! Basically, I say that curious phrase whenever I can cleverly (or not so cleverly) insert it into a conversation and of course most people likely think I'm crazy. Thankfully, people that know me and have had me shove Sophie's drawings in their face shrieking about how amazing they are...well, they understand...or tolerate me. </span></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/MWEBimages/all%20departments/full/M2007_211_440a-b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/MWEBimages/all%20departments/full/M2007_211_440a-b.jpg" width="257" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sleeve "puffs" in the LACMA collection<br />
No one wants to have the altitude of their<br />
puffs discomposed...no way!</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">I'll explore more about Sophie and her drawings later...but, in the meantime think about getting your own <strike>copy</strike>. <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Sophie-Du-Pont-Sketches-1823-1833/dp/0810911361" target="_blank">http://www.amazon.com</a> If you love historic fashion and 19th Century material culture then you'll fall in love with it! So, the adventure (and nerdiness) begins and hopefully it will be fun and fashionable...to a degree. </span></div>
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<a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d0/Waist-and-Extravagance-ca-1830-fashion-satire-Heath.jpg/443px-Waist-and-Extravagance-ca-1830-fashion-satire-Heath.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d0/Waist-and-Extravagance-ca-1830-fashion-satire-Heath.jpg/443px-Waist-and-Extravagance-ca-1830-fashion-satire-Heath.jpg" width="236" /></a></div>
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Le Bombettehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07344968780059271389noreply@blogger.com5